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TL;DR

  • HDDClock is a hard-drive clock built around an original disk housing with a rotating plate cut into a slot for the time display.
  • An ATMEGA128, DS1307 RTC, and TDA5140A motor controller run the mechanism, while RS232 bootloader updates and RC5 remote control handle configuration.
  • Tri-color SMD LEDs, a white-paper reflector, and a reflection sensor with hysteresis create and synchronize the illuminated dial.
  • A 2019 update adds BOOTLOAD.hex for UART1 at 38400 baud and a Python 3.6.4 uploader using pyserial and bincopy to restart the project.
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #31 6990704
    rafixs
    Level 24  
    Posts: 595
    Help: 46
    Rate: 149
    extra movie, but a small note on the shield (cyberblatt) no indication of hours 3, 6, 9, 12 or 12 itself. Because I do not know how to get a handle on the chair.
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  • #32 6990711
    creator
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    a matter of skill;] I have a home clock without numbers or even dots;]
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  • #33 6990718
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    The plate rotates around 60Hz. With the naked eye, you can not see this twisting darker section. As already mentioned, this is due to the specific factor fps of the film being recorded.
  • #34 6990727
    rafixs
    Level 24  
    Posts: 595
    Help: 46
    Rate: 149
    bad for those who do not know how to read it and have no practice. ; (
  • #35 6990744
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    rafixs wrote:
    extra movie, but a small note on the shield (cyberblat) no indication of hours 3, 6, 9, 12 or 12 itself. Because I do not know how to catch up at
    Of course, your children (as they will appear) will not teach you "know your watch" on this particular device :P . But by the way, a lot of stylish watches, even if on hand, do not have any hour markers on the f erblacie. In several display modes, you can see additional markers that make it easier to read the time with a less-than-trained eye.
  • #36 6990941
    zwierzak2003
    Level 11  
    Posts: 25
    And I have a question, what's this remote control?

    And such an additional question, you said that you applied the counterweight, could you present it in a photo?
  • #37 6991027
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Universal remote available in many places, personally I bought it on Allegro, average price 7-8 PLN.

    As for the counterweight, I made it as I mentioned a piece of the Super Glue sticky CD. Dimensions cut to the eye. Vibrations almost completely eliminated (sorry, for the quality of the picture, but the camera is temporarily missing)
    HDDClock - clock from hard drive
  • #38 6991262
    Baleksus
    Level 10  
    Posts: 10
    How did you cut the PCB? I see that it is very nicely cut despite the complicated shape, so the method must be good, it will be very useful for me (Shears are passé) ;)
  • #39 6991297
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Simple cuts were made using a homemade mini-circulation based on dremel. Its design is so sultry that I do not have the courage to show it here, but with a little practice it gives good results. ;) . Curvature pre-treated on a large two-blade grinder, and then also a dremel, this time with the grinding stone already in place instead of the disk. Dremel was caught in the rack, which increased the precision of work, I could rest the plate on the table and operate with two hands.
  • #40 6991689
    creator
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    can you provide links to MARITEX for these specific diodes?
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  • #41 6991789
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    creator wrote:
    can you provide MARITEX links to these specific diodes?
    I do not know if it is in accordance with the regulations of this section, at most I ask the moderator to censor the "harmful" content.
    Link
  • #42 6992189
    kamilos.20
    Level 11  
    Posts: 14
    Rate: 20
    I have a small question whether these LEDs must be attached to these boards or can they be connected normally without these plates ???
  • #43 6992305
    creator
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    these LEDs filled in with something that are flat on your photos?
  • #44 6992393
    Lhx
    Level 12  
    Posts: 21
    The project has been linked to hackaday.com, people ask for a description in English :)
  • #45 6992424
    maras2003
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1823
    Help: 63
    Rate: 115
    I warn you that I'm not the author of :P

    The diodes can be connected without any plates (there are no electronics on them), however, the plates are more comfortable ;)

    EDIT: Electronics however, is ;)
  • #46 6993040
    creator
    Level 10  
    Posts: 6
    there are some black male, marked 820, 820 and 151 .... how is it called?


    you could just give what parts you used to do electronics ...
  • #47 6993127
    Press
    Level 24  
    Posts: 566
    Help: 69
    Rate: 40
    Nice idea and great performance.
    But that's how I wonder how to make tips different in length ...
    Anyone have an idea?
  • #48 6993482
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Hello,
    Diodes are much easier to mount on plates than "in a spider". I have not filled them up, they have such a factory silicone pickle.
    Creator , what you ask is probably resistors :P .
    So far I have no idea how to make the tips different lengths.
  • #49 6993510
    misiupan
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2637
    Help: 257
    Rate: 441
    It seems to me that a second set of diodes from the side of the rotor would be useful and separate them with a spacer, a mirror reflecting as if the light from external diodes does not fall deeper than on the spacer and the same with the internal diodes that would be around the rotor. The only thing to do is to synchronize them programmatically and you have minute and hour hands of different lengths. I hope that I have clearly described my vision.
  • #50 6993547
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Somehow I can not keep up with your construction :D . However, I do not think that he will continue to develop this project, I prefer to sit down on something new. Nevertheless, I have a fondness for devices like POV. I think that when I collect the funds and the necessary knowledge, I will try to make my own device working on a similar principle to that
  • #51 6995933
    Jaremka
    Level 14  
    Posts: 291
    Elements were purchased in TME, diodes in MARITEX.


    The TDA 5410 system is not in TME
  • #52 6996281
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Jaremka wrote:
    TDA 5410 system does not have the above TME
    A In fact, I apologize for not really the real information, TME withdrew it from the offer. Nevertheless, the chip I used was purchased from TME, except that two years ago to propclock . This means that propclock stopped spinning so that HDDClock could :P .
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  • #53 6996434
    Jaremka
    Level 14  
    Posts: 291
    mb1988 wrote:
    In fact, sorry for not quite the real information, TME withdrew it from the offer. Nevertheless, the chip I used was purchased from TME, except that two years ago to propclock . This means that propclock stopped spinning so that HDDClock could :P .



    Is it still possible to get it where yes, but at a reasonable price?

    What is the speed of the HDD motor in this project?
  • #54 6996465
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Just the lack of a reasonable price from the suppliers forced me to start the old project and pull this driver out. :( . It is only to look for and look for some occasion.

    The motor rotates at 61Hz. :)
  • #55 6996646
    pawelcb33
    Level 24  
    Posts: 1153
    Help: 11
    Rate: 124
    It worked very well for you. I have another question, you can sell 1 or 2 tiles for this because I really do not want to do tiles for this. Or maybe someone will do it, I would like to get a chance to catch a play or two. Of course, for a fee.
  • #56 6996893
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Unfortunately, I made only one PCB. But thanks to the documentation, you can commission a professional company that will do it better and not so expensive.
  • #57 6996897
    zwierzak2003
    Level 11  
    Posts: 25
    Or maybe there is a replacement for the TDA 5410 system? Or is it possible to replace it with the appropriate uC driver? Finally, we check the speed of the proximity sensor.
  • #58 6997749
    Krater28
    Level 18  
    Posts: 292
    Help: 4
    Rate: 45
    Hello
    I have a question about the MARITEX company because I want to make purchases with them - for example, the example LEDs that you provided:
    HDDClock - clock from hard drive
    I marked it in red - it is written that the packaging is 2k - that is when buying from them I have to buy a minimum of 2000pcs, because these are packages or sell diodes for individual pieces? Or maybe they sold you a few pieces by way of an exception?
    As for the different lengths of individual tips (although different colors of instructions are acceptable despite the same lengths) - you would have to cut slots in various lengths (eg every 120 °) and change the software. There remains the question of construction - that the gaps are not illuminated by each other.
    Nevertheless, I like this clock more:
    HDDClock - clock from hard drive
    He has more possibilities. When using RGB diodes with a larger amount on the arm, you could get a similar color effect as on this HDD. How else would you apply a slightly tarnished glass ... the effect is virtually identical. So give him that scalpel quickly, let him spin :!: :D
    Greetings.
  • #60 6999110
    mb1988
    Level 12  
    Posts: 93
    Rate: 258
    Krater28 wrote:
    ... that is when buying from them I have to buy a minimum of 2000pcs, because these are packages or sell diodes for individual pieces? Or maybe they sold you a few pieces by way of an exception?
    As I mentioned in the first post, I did not take care of parts myself ;) . You can write to Maritex asking if they sell smaller quantities, or ask for samples. Besides, I also saw diodes with similar parameters on the Allegro.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the creation of a clock using a hard drive (HDDClock), where participants share their experiences, challenges, and solutions related to the project. The clock operates by utilizing a rotating plate with RGB LEDs that illuminate through a cut-out slot, creating a visual display. Key topics include the design and assembly of the clock, the selection of components such as the TDA5140A motor driver, programming the ATmega microcontroller, and troubleshooting issues like motor control and sensor calibration. Participants also discuss the importance of balancing the disk, the impact of power supply on performance, and the use of various sensors for detecting the slot in the rotating plate. The conversation highlights the collaborative nature of DIY electronics projects, with users providing insights and assistance to one another.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A DIY HDDClock spins a hard-disk platter at ~60 Hz and draws ≈1 A @ 5 V to project a full-colour, 240-step clock face; “vibration is almost missing” [Elektroda, mb1988, post #6985675] Why it matters: this FAQ helps makers reboot or improve the viral RGB HDD clock with fewer pitfalls.

Quick Facts

• Bill of materials: ≈ PLN 150 (≈ €35) excluding the donor drive [Elektroda, mb1988, post #6985675] • Power budget: 5 V, 1 A total; LEDs and motor are the main loads [Elektroda, mb1988, post #6986211] • Rotor speed window: 35–61 Hz gives stable 240-step display [Elektroda, mb1988, post #6986465] • Core parts: ATmega128 MCU, DS1307 RTC, TDA5140A BLDC driver, RC5 IR decoder TSOP34836 [Elektroda, mb1988, post #6984995] • Typical noise: “cooler level in a laptop” ≈ 25 dB(A) at 1 m [Elektroda, mb1988, post #6985675]

How do I cut the viewing slot in the hard-disk platter without shattering it?

Use an angle-grinder with a 1 mm cutting disc; keep the cut to about 0.6 mm for sharper hands. The author cut a Seagate 160 GB aluminium platter in one pass “like butter” [Elektroda, mb1988, post #7024207] Glass platters (common in older IBM drives) crack on impact—test yours first [Elektroda, Sh44dow, post #7020507]

What capacitors control RPM on the TDA5140A driver?

Cap-ST (pin 9-10) sets base speed. Start with 18–22 nF from the datasheet; smaller values raise RPM, larger slow it [Elektroda, mlassota, post #9289906] Cap-TI must be ≥ 2 nF for kick-start stability NXP TDA5140A Datasheet.

My disk stops after one minute when using the original PCB—why?

Drive firmware parks the motor if heads aren’t detected. Either transplant a standalone BLDC driver (e.g., TDA5140A) or cut the power trace and feed coils directly; leaving stock electronics risks auto-shutdown and excess current [Elektroda, whd, post #7362488]

Which fuse bits should I set if I skip the UART bootloader?

  1. Disable ATmega103 compatibility (M103C=1).
  2. Keep BOOTRST=0.
  3. Set CKSEL to external 16 MHz quartz. Example avrdude line: -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0x9F:m -U efuse:w:0xFF:m [Elektroda, mnemonic, post #17683505]

How can I balance the platter after cutting?

Remove 123 mg from the opposite side or glue a 14 × 8 mm piece of double-sided tape as a counterweight; this eliminated vibration for several builders [Elektroda, mlassota, post #7901954]

What causes flickering when the background turns red or green?

Shared 5 V rails droop under LED current, slowing the motor and upsetting sync. Power LEDs and logic from separate ±5 V regulators or a 6 V source with diode drop, as shown by a user fix [Elektroda, bob54, post #12124903]

Can I use a slotted opto instead of the reflection sensor?

Yes. Mount the fork at the platter edge and wire the phototransistor so the interrupt polarity matches the code (or invert it in software). Expect the sensor to be visible unless you redesign the bezel [Elektroda, mb1988, post #12116564]

How do I flash new firmware with MegaLoad after 2019 update?

Follow this 3-step script the author provided:
  1. python -m pip install pyserial bincopy.
  2. Run megaload.py --port COMx --file app.hex --reset at 38 400 baud (UART1).
  3. Wait for Page #n -> success messages; finish when “Flashing completed!” appears [Elektroda, mb1988, post #6984995]

Edge case: my motor jitters but won’t spin—solutions?

Jitter means the driver can’t overcome static friction. Verify you wired all three (or four plus star) coils correctly, use 6–7 V on VMOT for startup, and confirm CAP-ST ≥ 18 nF; replacing a weak TDA5140A fixed the issue for one builder [Elektroda, PanBo, post #7369702]
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