HDDClock - clock from hard drive

And it is not a case of 2 sets of pieces here? It would be a more reasonable interpretation of this record (as in the picture in one set there are 2 diodes). Because a little tactless are the prices given. If you can only buy 2k pieces, why are prices from one item? If the prices concern one set (1000 pieces of LEDs) then why are these LEDs so cheap? This is the only logical solution for me.

Revelation ! It makes an amazing impression, I wonder how it looks like in XXL format

Regarding the lack of availability of TDA5140A at an affordable price, I found one page on which this arrangement is in the price of ~ 10 PLN:
http://www.poltronic.com.pl/go/_info/?user_id=TDA5140
(I think I found a good website?)

EDIT:
I did not read this:

Quote:

Availability: we expect delivery

Beautiful thing

I should still have an old IBM (40) with damaged electronics and I am thinking about copying such a clock because I liked it very much. I would do it on a larger board placed on the back of the casing, because with my eyesight, lack of better optical equipment and little experience with a soldering iron I can not handle SMD. . I have a few questions about this system.

Does the motor rotate without rotation control, as if it was a brush and only synchronize with a sensor by calculating the time between pulses?

Is a controller like ATMega8 enough for this? Will I get enough resolution on it?

Is there any simpler sensor which in this situation would not require additional circuits would only give 1 pulse on each revolution? Can such sensors be obtained in an ordinary electronics?

Initially, I had to put all the electronics in the back of the housing, but eventually I decided to have a more compact design.

The engine has no control or smooth speed control. The operating frequency is determined by means of capacitors connected to TDA5140A pins, it also depends on the supply voltage of the motor coils. Synchronization takes place on the principle you provided.

If I did not want to use smooth color adjustment, I would also use Atmega8, that would be enough. But just the introduction of this additional feature forced me to use a controller that has a hardware triple output compare from one meter. In this way, I do not have to play software PWM support. However, I think that with good programming skills, a similar effect could be obtained on Atmega8. In total, I use all available timers in my project: one to measure the time between revolutions, one to measure the time of 1/240 parts of rotation, one to the mentioned PWM and one to count the interrupts coming from RTC with the frequency 4096Hz (very convenient to measure other, necessary in the program, time sequences such as remote control etc.)

In the proclock that I used to do, I used an optoelectronic gap sensor, but the mechanical design looked a bit different there. Nevertheless, it was connected directly to the microcontroller's input and worked fine. In this project I used a reflection sensor and, as I wrote earlier, tests have shown that it will be safer to buffer the signal coming from this sensor. You can finally try to match the resistances in the phototransistor collector circuit and supply the IR diode in the sensor, but I can not guarantee the effects. I also do not think you will have any more problems accessing these elements.

Thanks for the answer.

I just found the old mouse. What do you think? It is going to be an optical sensor (I do not know how to call it professionally ) such as this one - https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/ 35_1246873132.jpg - connected directly?


The 1/240 rotation timer sets the orbase resolution, right?

Sh44dow wrote:

An optical sensor (I do not know how to call it professionally) like this one - https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/35_1246873132.jpg

The sensor looks standard, should be suitable, but it is best to check.

Sh44dow wrote:

Timer counting 1/240 turns determines the resolution of the orbase, right?

Yes. 240 is a good number, because it has nice divisors and is also located on one byte. Increasing the resolution no longer improved the quality of the displayed image.

How much space is there between the plate and the ground?
I took apart the old IBM today and it is quite tight there to push the LEDs, and there's nothing going between the edge of the plate and the casing, because it is less than 1mm.

Under the plate is about 10mm. The diodes on the plates have come into contact and are located mainly under the plate. In order not to be seen so much that they are under the disc, I have slightly reduced the hole diameter in the front bezel. In addition, the grill almost touches the surface of the plate which also positively affects the final effect - there are no clearances, the "shield" does not have a bright border. I will also add that the plate was not mounted as in the original. I put it higher by adding one more sleeve from another disk.

How old was your drive? What capacity?
My 40-gig IBM's plate crumbled like a glass when it touched the corner It also crumbles when cut with a handball.
I found an old plate from a dozen-year-old disk ~ 120MB (still with the "golden" layer from the outside) and cut out without any problem in it. Unfortunately, it is crooked like a sidewalk in the city and is not suitable. .
I have a few more 9GB SCSI disks that I used to buy for a penny and I'm thinking about undressing one I would like to avoid unnecessary demolition so I need to determine if only newer disks are so fragile .

The plate was pulled out from about 3 years old Seagate Barracuda 160GB. There were two such plates in the disc. To my surprise, I did not have the slightest problems with cutting the gap, the grinder passed like through butter, the cutting edge was even and sharp.

Hello, I have a question about the pilot to control it, everyone will work or must it be specific?

Everyone working in the RC5 standard will work. The buttons used are: channel +, channel-, mute and power-on.

They have also noticed you in the wide world -> http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/09/yet_another_hdd_clock.html

I'm just getting ready for this clock but I have a few unknowns:

What is this ICSP layout and where to find it?
What battery should I use?
What is the 10 pin socket on the front for, if the rear is for programming?
And what is the programming socket for this?

Hello.

ICSP is schematic because a typo has crept in, it should be an ISP. But this is nothing but the 10 pin socket you are asking for expertly named IDC10. You can use it normally for programming. Even if you want to use programming via RS232, you must use it at least once to upload the bootloader first. I used CR927 for the battery. It is a little too small for the stand, which is on the board, but it does not fall out.

that is, I have to understand that this isp is used for uploading the bootloader, but to upload the program you can by this rear entrance? (what it's called because I can not find it

Hmmm, it should be understood as I wrote earlier. The 10-pin KANDA connector is used to program the circuit using the factory interface that the microcontroller manufacturer has prepared. You can upload a bootloader, but nothing prevents you from uploading the target application. By the way, the bootloader is after all nothing but an application (placed, of course, in the appropriate area of memory). Let's say it's like home. Usually, you enter the front door. But you can also open the door from the balcony. Then you can easily get inside, but that does not mean that we can not go through the front door. In this project it is simply more convenient to use the bootloader, because you can exchange the software after the entire system has been assembled. Of course, you could do it without the bootloader, but then you would have to somehow move out this basic programming interface, and personally I think that this black cube with ten gold pins does not look very attractive. The connector used is a stereo jack socket.

I have a question about these LEDs. Could you share a schematic of this tile with resistor values on it?

Is Jack can also program what the tip on the other hand looks like so that you can program it like that?

I have a question about controlling the motor I have a WD4000 drive and there is a motor with 4 wires: / how can it be controlled?

I have a watch for 1.5 months so I have a question: how accurate. And how did you cut the perfect circle in this reynobond?
And one more thing about connecting LEDs. The LEDs are connected in a string, Vcc is given from the DC jack, and RGB cables to P1, P2 and P3 respectively, but how well do I see that you connect "from two sides" - is not enough from one?
TDA5410A is very hard to find - I found only one store (about PLN 22), there is no substitute?

Hello,
It's hard for now to assess the accuracy because the watch is constantly showing someone to someone and I change it, so I lose the error that appears. The circle was cut with a tile cutter mounted in a table drill. It is important to attach the plate to a table with a clamp because it can easily break it, injure your hands and most likely destroy the material being processed. The circle cut by this method is perfect. When it comes to connecting the diodes, I actually applied a certain redundancy and can be connected on one side, because although the diodes are in a string, they are electrically connected with each other in parallel. About availability TDA5140A ('1' of '4' are often listed in this name, it also happens to me) we have already written and it is not really easy. I bought my still at TME before they withdrew from the offer. There is nothing else to overpay because I do not know another driver, with similar functionality and ease of use.

Thanks!
The power cable is directly soldered to the UVW TDA5140A pins? How to mark which is which (I have never had contact with three-phase motors). And what are the individual buttons of the remote control for?
I'm getting to shopping list

Edit: What battery is there?

Yes, the soldered cables are underneath to the pins of the system. The winding phases are indistinguishable, they can be soldered as desired. The engine will start turning in the opposite direction, but then it is enough to swap two cables. The pilot's button is best illustrated by the source code on the first page . The battery used is CR927 (a bit too small for the handle that I soldered, but it does not fall out of it).

I have a few more questions:
1. what power supply must be used? is enough 5V / 1A?
2. you can throw a schematic of these tiles for RGB LEDs? or at least a schematic as to how these resistors are connected to diodes?
3. what voltage does this battery have, because the batteries with this symbol are supposedly 2 types of voltage?

thanks in advance for your answer.

Hello,

1. 5V / 1A can be slightly overloaded in this case. I used the power supply 15 watt power supply with a safe power supply.

2. The scheme of tiles is in the protelowskim file available in the first post.

3. The battery used is a 3V battery.

The project is almost finished. I still have a question about programming, i.e. you have to set up fusebits?

Yes, you have to change the fuse bit. Generally, this boils down to disabling the compatibility mode with atmega103, activating the bootloader and changing the source of the signal.

Screen from PonyProga:


For commandliners, just call avrdude with the following options: -U lfuse: in: 0xff: m -U hfuse: in: 0x9e: m -U efuse: in: 0xff: m

can someone speak / write in english or german... german is better, and sorry for my english^^

can someone send me a exactly list of the pieces, because i don't understand the HDDclock.xls in the pcb.

and a exactly schematic from the top and the bottom like this on the bottom, because i can't turn it in the programm


an is there a wrong part? ... you write that the U2 is an IR smd. but in the schematic the U3 is the IR diode.

...what voltage you habe used? 12V or 5V???

...how much RPM have the HDD? 7200 or 5400?

...the 10 pin connector on the left side... for what is it there? can i flash the ATMEGA128 on this connector

thx