Well, it hurts ... 128 is not cheap ... I wonder if the other elements are alive ...
If you can not measure the resistance, connect any three wires. Two are definitely OK. Connect the voltage + 5V to 4 and 8 TDA and, of course (-) to the whole system. How it works is OK if you do not de-sold one - and change it with a free one. If you postpone the right move - if it does not return to its place and you take the next one, etc ... In the end will move.
TDA are quite robust (although it seemed to me that the processors too - not once I connected the voltage backwards but only for a moment).
Start by checking if 51 is + 5V on the leg - remove it from the TDA stand before checking it. If after 5V the supply voltage appears and the motor does not start, it may mean a TDA failure or incorrect connection of the motor terminals. If the engine is badly connected, you should hear a squeak or the engine should start to "shake". Lack of tension on the 51st leg can indicate:
- incorrect uploading of the program
- processor damage
- quartz damage
Earlier in the post you have test programs - try to upload them and see if it works on them.
If you have an oscilloscope or at least some logic analyzer, see if you have a square wave at f = 4,096 kHz on the 7 RTC leg. If it means that rtc is most likely OK - the lack of a signal may indicate:
- RTC damage
- processor damage
- incorrect programming of the processor
- no communication on the processor lines - RTC
Desolder MAX - it is unnecessary to start the system.
Check the entire plate under the magnifying glass for short circuits.
On the 51 leg Atmega is 5V, the motor does not move, I tried with the other motor from the disc effect the same; / after the test programs the diodes blink so the rest I think it's ok? it remains to replace TDA and hope that it will start and the question is whether the universal remote is needed to run the clock? If so, how to run a watch without a remote control?
The watch will start without a remote but ...
- the watch can not be set
- it is not possible to change the display mode
- it is not possible to turn the watch into stand-by mode
It can be any TV remote control broadcasting in RC5 - some Chinese counterparts from Philips remote controls are great.
You can also make a remote control yourself by writing a simple program, eg in Bascom on a processor such as AtTiny 2313
No service is very hard ...
TDA are quite robust but playing with HDD motors has released two pieces, so there is a chance.
In test programs, colors should ignite one after another and the engine should start for a moment. If he did not move - he did not even murmur - there is a chance that TDA fell
How do you get TDA, do the same driver on the contact or universal board and connect to the engine ...
So it will not be so easy ...
Let's start by locating the cause.
If you have a contact plate, follow the attached diagram and make the controller layout. If you do not have a PCB, then the PCB for the controller is also below.
How do you connect the controller to 5V - the engine should start.
As we move on the external driver we will think further.
PCB is prepared so that you need to solder it on the surface of the DIL18 stand with the pins bent outwards - resistors and capacitors probably you have ...
Could anyone provide me with a pcb scheme for diodes? Unfortunately, I do not have a protel, and linux probably there is not even ... I made a plate driver for the watch but unfortunately I can not deal with these schamats.
I would like to ask you some pdf-a
Доброго времени суток господа!
I from Russia.
Я из россии.
I can not open РСВ a files from archive.HDDClock - schemat i PCB.rar
Не могу открыть РСВ файлы из архива.HDDClock - schemat i PCB.rar
For it is earlier grateful!
за ранее благодарен!
My mail: alex002009(malpa)mail.ru
мой mail: alex002009(malpa)mail.ru
с уважением Александр!
Yours faithfully Alexander!
I have a problem with opening the pcb file and others using eagle, I only display numbers and numbers, so it's supposed to be done if I have a diagram I've downloaded 10 times maybe someone knows my question?
Hello. First and foremost, I would like to congratulate the author of the project - the quality of performance is enviable - and thank you for sharing the diagram and code.
I have declared, perhaps a little naively, to make a clock working on this principle as a project for one of the objects at the university. It all took a lot of valuable time before the time session, but eventually the clock works, despite the correct display of only two colors (as for now) .
Bebechs and insights about my version:
- ATmega168 - no fourth timer or three PWM channels on one of them hurts, but maybe I can restore the third color to life,
- RTC PCF8563 - it can generate a 32 Hz waveform, which allowed to release the timer originally clocked from RTC and replace it with an external interrupt without overcharging uC,
- TDA5140A (together with elements from the extended diagram from the catalog note) - instead of DAC, it is enough to give a potentiometer between 5V and GND (or you can make a resistor ladder on the ATmegi port) and you get a simple speed control (without changing the supply voltage).
- The reflective sensor is HSDL-9100, consists of a photodiode and an infrared LED, it is small, but rather clunky. The correct setting is a real katorga, in addition (at least at me) it protrudes significantly above the level of the plate. It is in his favor that the correct measurement to about 90 revolutions per second (provided even more correct setting, to which you must be a master of patience). As the photodiodes have a smaller kick from the phototransistors, the resistor pulling the cathode up to 5V has the value 1M instead of 10k. The rest as in the original - comparator with hysteresis.
- I did not play remote control, maybe some other time.
As for drives with four pins - TDA5140A has a pin (probably MOT0) to connect the center of the star. The center of the star must be connected to this pin, no resistors need to be used. If, on the other hand, the motor has three leads, then you must create an artificial means using resistors (as in the original diagram) and connect to this pin. It is in order to dispel the emerging doubts.
As I failed to bring the third color back to life (I still think that it would be possible, using PWM from Timer 2, but both outputs are used by other elements), for now I will not share the scheme, because previously in this thread were presented systems that work fully and are not more complicated at all.
Hello, I am French and I do not understand the Polish and very little mastery English! So, I'm doing the translation with Google. Thank you for your understanding.
I wish to realize "HHDClock" which is sensational: congratulations for this realization. I have two problems: the diodes "MARITEX" are not available, can I replace them with these LEDs found on Ebay or else at "TME"? Some resistance values are different between the scheme and PCB photos: eg R2-R13-R14 = 47 Ω and on PCB = 100, R1 = 100 Ω and on PCB 150, R3-R4-R5-R11 = 10 k & nbsp; and on PCB 4.7 k, R15-R16-R17 = 10 k & nbsp; and on PCB 47 k's!
Thank's for your answer. Best regards.
Hello, I am French and I do not understand Polish and very little mastery of English! So I do the translation with Google. Thank you for your understanding.
I want to realize "HHDClock" which is sensational: congratulations for this achievement. I have two concerns: the "MARITEX" diodes are not available, is it that I can replace them with these LEDs found on Ebay or another in "TME"? Some resistance values are different between the schematic and PCB pictures: eg R2-R13-R14 = 47 Ω and 100 & 93; = PCB, R1 = 100 Ω and 150 & 93; PCB, R3-R4-R5-R11 = 10 k & nt; and PCB 4.7 k, R15-R16-R17 = 10 k & 937; and 47 k Ω PCB!
Thank you for your response. Cordially.
Witam, jestem Francuzem i compend polską i bardzo mało mistrzostwo
Angielski! Więc robię tłumaczenia z Google. Dziękuję za zrozumienie.
Chcę zrozumieć "HHDClock", który jest rewelacyjny: gratulacje za to
realizacja. Mam dwa zastrzeżenia: diody "MARITEX" denies to dostępne,
Czy to, co mogę wymienić i na te LED znaleźć w domu ebay lub inne
"TME"? Niektóre wartości rezystancji różnią się między schematem i
PCB zdjęcia: np. R2-R13-R14 = 47 ] i 100 Ω = PCB, R1 = 100 Ω i PCB
150, R3-R4-R5-R11 = 10 k & nt; PCB 4.7 k, R15-R16-R17 = 10 K & sub4; i 47k & 937; PCB
Dziękujemy za answer.Kind.
Low energy consumption
Emitting Color: 3-CHIPS PLCC-6 SMD SMT LED RGB CONTROL MANUAL
Lens type: clear water
Wavelenth: RED: 625-630 nm; BLUE: 465-470nm; GREEN: 520-525nm
Luminous intensity: RED: 6000mcd; BLUE: 5000mcd; GREEN: 6500mcd
Reverse voltage: 5.0 V
DC Voltage: RED: 1.8-2 0.4 V; BLUE: 3.0-3.6V; GREEN: 3.0-3.6V
DC Current: 20mA
Angle of vision: 120 degrees
Direct Temp solder: 260 ° C for 5 seconds
Angle of vision: 120 degree PLCC-6 Power SMD LED size:
Absolute maximum ratings & agrave; Ta = 25 ° C
Articles Symbol Absolute maximum score Unit
Power Dissipation PD 100 mW
DC current SI 20 mA
Direct crimp * IFP current 30 mA
Reverse voltage VR 5 V
Operating temperature Topr -40 ~ 85 ℃
Storage temperature Tstg -10 ~ 100 ℃
Set the welding temperature Tsol Max.260 ° C for max. (3 mm from the base of the epoxy light bulb)
* Pulse width of 0.1 ms ≦ duty ≦ 1/10
Electrical / Optical Characteristics Ta = 25 ° C
Articles Symbol Condition Min. Typ. Max. Unit
Dissipation of the front VF SI = 20mA 3.00 / 3.60 V
Invert DC (DC) IR VR = 5V / / 10 uA
Dominant wavelength D D SI = 20mA / / /
Luminous intensity IV SI = 20mA / / / mcd
Power angle of 50% △ θ SI = 20mA / + plusmn; 60-70 / deg
Could someone please tell me :
1) what jumpers need to be jumped during programming?
I am getting the square pumping in MAX232 on the 1uF capacitors but RXD and TXD are constant 5 volts?
I believe that the atmega128 is making those high outputs?
2) how to configure my computer to be suitable for the programming of this chip?
I have apsolutely no knowledge on this and Im just trying to make the hdd clock , as you could assume i already invested quite a bit of money to get where i am now, so i dont want to see it go to waste because a few glitches
Thanks to anyone who responses
Here are the images of both sides of the pcb. I know it looks horrible ( It is my first double sided printer transfered SMD board i have ever made ) ,but all connections are solid and there are no shorts, the clock chip is missing because i coulnd find it in an SO-8 package but only DIP-8 ,so it will be mounted somewhere in the case, and the PDO jumper isnt where it is supposed to be,but right after it goes out of the atmega,with a little piece of wire ( i will clean it up right after i manage to program it ) and mb1988mb1988 thank you very much for responding, it is an honnor
Again i know it really looks bad but trust me all connections are how they are supposed to be, I've put many many hours into this board I've even tried the opto switch op amp output and it is good, but so far it is the only thing that works on the board
First of all, 'few glithes' and ''horrible' in your situation sounds like a complement .
What I see is unfortunately lack of knowledge and I don't think that the clock will run near soon, but with small steps maybe someday you will get this working.
What you call 'jumpers' is in the fact 10-pin programming socket compatibile with ISP programmer which uses KANDA pinout standard e.g. USBasp. You should get one and try to comunicate with your uC. I won't be describing this procedure because it was described many times elsewhere. This step is crucial and can't be skiped.
Yes, you are right, I am just a beginner to this, but hey, everyone was a beginner at a point I thought that the max232 is for the programming of the atmega , if not, what is it for ? And i will fix the pins that you said were for programming by replacing them with a proper socket