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Set - DC / DC converter 9A XL4016 and panel meter DSN-VC288, assembly, test

TechEkspert 44328 160
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  • #31
    adamas_nt
    Moderator of Programming
    I wanted to use it in the car as a power supply for a variety of such ... And everything worked out beautifully until I started the engine :(
    Set - DC / DC converter 9A XL4016 and panel meter DSN-VC288, assembly, test

    Input capacitor too small? What to do so that there is no boom again with the alternator running?

    And most importantly: Is there anyone in the XL4016 chip stock? On Alle ... as for anger, there is no, and I found it on the Internet for $ 0.65, where the shipping cost is 5x the purchase cost: /

    best regards
  • #32
    sylweksylwina
    Moderator of Computers service
    Capacitor probably not, it's hard to say why this happened. This module withstands much higher voltages.
  • #33
    E8600
    Level 40  
    How to increase the maximum current of the system.


    Layout diagram.
    Set - DC / DC converter 9A XL4016 and panel meter DSN-VC288, assembly, test
  • #34
    adamas_nt
    Moderator of Programming
    It seems to me that it is not the current (the load was a reflector bulb), but the voltage changes at the input (the alternator only has a bridge).

    Noo! But he can do that for a welder :) Awesome...
  • #35
    E8600
    Level 40  
    adamas_nt wrote:
    Input capacitor too small? What to do so that there is no boom again with the alternator running?

    In my opinion, those shoddy precision potentiometers are to blame. I had something similar in another MT3608 converter where the same potentiometer works as it wants. Right out of the box it didn't work at all. They are probably tarnish inside or not folded properly.

    In the case of a colleague, starting the engine and the related vibrations could cause the loss of resistance of the potentiometers and excitation of the system to too high power.
  • #36
    Justyniunia
    Level 35  
    Does anyone know what the second LED is for, i.e. it would be if it were mounted? I want to build a regulated power supply, but apparently it is a misfire on linear potentiometers.
    I have 2pcs of 10k and 2pcs of 1k for coarse and fine adjustment.
  • #37
    D¿yszla
    Level 42  
    Justyniunia - I will be putting 10k + 1k linear on voltage in the near future. I will write what it looks like then.

    Meanwhile, the course of the deviation at 5V / 0.9A, CV work. Vertical division 2mV. Forgive the old Russian oscilloscope, the blurry photo and the lack of something to blame it Set - DC / DC converter 9A XL4016 and panel meter DSN-VC288, assembly, test :)
  • #38
    Justyniunia
    Level 35  
    If that didn't work out, I have a second idea.
    Potentiometer e.g. 1k and range switch.
  • #39
    D¿yszla
    Level 42  
    I'm afraid it would be fun with the range selector. Unless you still have to do, for example, the possibility of connecting parallel to the potentiometer to change the entire characteristic. Well, maybe I can make time next weekend. I will definitely share the results.
  • #40
    CMS
    Administrator of HydePark
    Gentlemen and ladies, I do not understand your polemics. The solution with two potentiometers (coarse and fine) has been proven for years and works. Why reinvent the wheel?
  • #41
    Justyniunia
    Level 35  
    My fears stem from this:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3434421.html
    eurotips wrote:
    The factory ones are linear and only thanks to the multiturns used, you can set anything with them. The linearity of regulation on these peers is terrible. There you need a potentiometer with characteristics similar to logarithmic, unfortunately you do not find such potentiometers at reasonable prices.

    eurotips wrote:
    As for the minimum, you have 1.2V, you have 3.0V in half
    You have 5V for 3/4 turn and the rest of the small part is the rest, i.e. the 5-30V range.

    Szyszkownik Kilkujadek wrote:
    But it is about the characteristics of the potentiometer, it would have to be a miracle of the M + N type used in audio, something that nobody produces in series.


    Added after 6 [hours] 12 [minutes]:

    Voltage regulation checked.
    For the 10k potentiometer there is no change from halfway up
    (we're already half full of tension)
    The situation was improved by a 14-15k resistor in parallel with the potentiometer.
    There is a place for such an SMD resistor on the bottom of the board.


    The 10k potentiometer is used to regulate thicker values, while the 1k potentiometer allows for 3V adjustment, which is acceptable.
    I set 1k in the middle, with the 10k potentiometer I set "roughly" the voltage that interests me and with this 1k I choose the value precisely.

    As for the current regulation, the precise one does not work at all by. the diagram shown earlier, besides, there is probably an error - the current, voltage description changed.
    The precise regulation for the current allows you to operate with currents in the vicinity of 0 - 1A.

    I have it connected like this:

    Set - DC / DC converter 9A XL4016 and panel meter DSN-VC288, assembly, test

    Set - DC / DC converter 9A XL4016 and panel meter DSN-VC288, assembly, test

    Oh, for the curious:
    The converter is powered by a 24V / 5A switching power supply (overclocked to 27.5V).
    Panel meter powered from a separate 5VDC source, also supplying a small fan.
    Everything works.
  • #42
    eurotips
    Level 38  
    Justyniunia wrote:
    Oh, for the curious:
    The converter is powered by a 24V / 5A switching power supply (overclocked to 27.5V).


    And here the dog is buried, you took measurements for one input voltage.
    I assure you that the value of this SMD resistor will be different for different input voltages to get the maximum output voltage as close as possible to the final position of the adjustment potentiometer.
    It is best to plot what value a setting must have to get a specific output voltage and plot a few different input voltages on this graph. Perhaps it will be possible to easily approximate the characteristics of the voltage regulation resistor in order to obtain a satisfactory linearity of the rise in relation to the position of the potentiometer axis.

    Note that in the current regulation there is a potentiometer with 3 taps and in the voltage regulation only a variable resistor with 2 taps. You made a mistake in connecting the current adjustment potentiometers.
  • #43
    Justyniunia
    Level 35  
    In my case (regulated power supply), the converter will work with this 27.5V power supply.
    It is possible that a different resistor will have to be selected for a different UIn.
    Current regulation is just beginning to work, both coarse and precise.
    Before that, the precise one did not work at all, and the coarse one, after gently turning the knob, pounded a few A at once.

    Now, with the minimum precise position, I set the coarse current to e.g. 3A, for precision I can add about 1A (example)
    With the coarse to the minimum, I regulate the precise 0-1A.
    Precise in the middle, I set the coarse to 2A, I can adjust the precise 1.5A - 2.5A. e.t.c...
    After all, that's how it should work.

    Returning to the input voltage and the resistor at the potentiometer, tomorrow, out of curiosity, I will power it from 12V and see what the regulation looks like.
  • #44
    D¿yszla
    Level 42  
    So for me it looks like when powering the 24V converter, the max grabs somewhere from 3/4 of the 10k potentiometer. I did according to the scheme (1 - 2 + 3) - (1 - 2 - 3) [what @CMS gave], where the first is 1k and the second is 10k
  • #45
    CMS
    Administrator of HydePark
    D¿yszla wrote:
    max grabs somewhere from 3/4 of the 10k potentiometer.


    And in what position do you have the "precise" potentiometer. We start the settings with the "coarse" potentiometer when the "fine" is turned to the minimum (default to the maximum left).
  • #46
    D¿yszla
    Level 42  
    At the minimum.
    This is exactly what it looks like:
    R1 - 10k, R2 - 1k:

    0%, 0% - 1.38V
    0%, 50% - 3V
    0%, 100% - 4.88V
    50%, 0% - 15V
    50%, 50% - 16.6V
    50%, 100% - 18.5V
    75% - max 24.6V
  • #47
    CMS
    Administrator of HydePark
    Hmmm, and these are definitely linear potentiometers? Let me remind you that the Chinese have "negative" markings in relation to, for example, Polish ones.
  • #48
    Justyniunia
    Level 35  
    I don't know about Chinese, but from what I can see, only our A's are linear, all other linear's are B.
  • #49
    D¿yszla
    Level 42  
    marked as B - linear. Although in fact, while 1k was 1k, this 10 was in fact 9.6k (basically my hand ;) ), which already says a lot :) Nevertheless - with an accuracy of 0.05V I can easily set it.
  • #50
    Heavy R
    Level 10  
    Hello, is the described converter suitable for the construction of a rectifier - charger for a 55 ah acid battery? Or is it better to stay with the classic transformer and bridge?
  • #51
    eurotips
    Level 38  
    Well, luckily and the bridge, you give this inverter and you have an excellent CC / CV charger.
    All you need to do is set the voltage to 14.4V (here the whole academic discussion can be held whether it should be 14.0 or 14.8 or as much as 16.2V because it all depends not only on the battery axis but even on the temperature in which it is charged) and the maximum current at 5.5A.
  • #52
    CMS
    Administrator of HydePark
    D¿yszla wrote:
    1k was 1k so this 10 was actually 9.6k


    I remind you about the tolerance of 10% and the accuracy of the "gauge" used. 9.6k is the most correct value.
  • #54
    Heavy R
    Level 10  
    If we put a 10A rectifying diode at the output of the inverter, it would prevent the voltage from the battery from being recovered to the inverter (the only question is whether to one wire or to both + I -)?
  • #55
    sylweksylwina
    Moderator of Computers service
    Why both?
    Remember that the lower the voltage drop across the diode, the smaller the losses.
  • #56
    TechEkspert
    Editor
    Instead of a diode, it could be combined with a MOSFET.
  • #57
    Justyniunia
    Level 35  
    And the diode between + Vin and + Vout?
    Anode to the output and cathode to the input?
  • #58
    eurotips
    Level 38  
    Do you need a diode at all? the module was conceived as a charger, so it is enough for someone to take a little trouble and check what happens when he connects the battery without giving voltage to Vin, just let someone who knows how to check and not release the module by the way (with a gentle indication of the author of the article) .
  • #59
    User removed account
    User removed account  
  • #60
    ArturAVS
    Moderator of HydePark/Cars
    Is it possible to increase the output current in a reliable and proven way? So let's say up to 20 - 25A?
    Someone tried?