Set - DC / DC converter 9A XL4016 and panel meter DSN-VC288, assembly, test

arturavs wrote:

Someone tried?

If he tried, it was probably only once.
From such a small (dimensionally) module and small heat sinks there is no chance to get 2x more power.
It is also problematic to power the converter from a switching power supply. I tried with ATX converted to 24V. Unfortunately, the power supply died at the first attempt to connect a current load around 5 A. But the converter "survived".

Someone may have the module damaged by too high current? (I suspect it at least)
Voltage regulation works, but current regulation does not (current flows even higher than the nominal maximum). What could be damaged?

brofran wrote:

If he tried, it was probably only once.

I do not mean "turning" this converter module to a higher current, but adding an additional transistor, replacing the choke to get 20A.

sylweksylwina wrote:

Voltage regulation works, but current regulation does not (current flows even higher than the nominal maximum). What could be damaged?

Check the current adjustment potentiometer with a multimeter if it smoothly adjusts the resistance. There was a similar case on the previous page.

brofran wrote:

It is also problematic to power the converter from a switching power supply.

And why should the inverter have a problem? I power from impulse 24V / 96W, I added only 1000uF on the output and input of the converter and I used the laptop on it without any problems.
When the power supply fell, it was probably not of good quality. I would not see the culprit in the inverter itself.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

arturavs wrote:

I do not mean "turning" this converter module to a higher current, but adding an additional transistor, replacing the choke to get 20A.

The capacitors are also worthwhile, necessarily heatsinks and ... In fact, you will build a new converter I don't know if there is any point in having fun.

Added after 58 [seconds]:

sylweksylwina wrote:

Voltage regulation works, but current regulation does not (current flows even higher than the nominal maximum). What could be damaged?

I suspect a break ...

The entire converter module has one terrible drawback - the break in the control (resistors) is the maximum voltage / maximum current.

eurotips wrote:

Do you need a diode at all? the module was conceived as a charger, so it is enough for someone to take a little trouble and check what happens when he connects the battery without giving voltage to Vin

I checked on the module received yesterday. I connected the gel 12V / 7Ah. The 30A series fuse has blown.
An additional diode is not needed, the reverse current will flow through the choke and the diode contained in the module.

For testing purposes, I connected according to the diagram from # 1. Nothing happens except that the meter is working. I did not look at the board, but it looks like it can be powered from the measured voltage. Vin was fed from an 18V / 10A power supply, and disconnected during operation.
With the 18650 cell connected, the blue LED on the inverter board slightly drizzled. I did not notice any other effects.

eurotips wrote:

protection is only a diode parallel to the output and a fuse on the output side.

The fuse itself is enough.

I have a question about the ammeter in this set. Does it show the current consumed, i.e. when there is no load, it shows nothing? Is it used to set the current limit and will it show the steady current even without a load?

zybex wrote:

Does it show the current consumed, i.e. when there is no load, it shows nothing?

Yes.

More precisely - without load it shows zero It is an ordinary meter, it has nothing to do with the inverter.

The relationship was such that it was a set in the elektroda.pl gadgets https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/shop.php

Yes, but from the point of view electronics are simply two completely independent elements and neither is necessary for the operation of the other - each of them carries out its own, separate activities

Could someone tell me how to connect it to a rectifier such a panel meter where exactly which cable?

Assuming you don't want to put a separate little power supply for the meter, your connection should look like this.

Everything in Polish explained on google you can find but I asked for an explanation which cable how to connect in Polish because I have a UPS rectifier transformer plus rectifier bridge and I know how to connect to show voltage but I do not know how to connect an ammeter it is a high scale for me so I need a simple explanation, not that you need a screwdriver to unscrew, everyone knows but when he asks for help, he writes clearly about what

After all, it is clear in the first statement of this topic - you have an ammeter on a plug with thick wires. The red "input" the current, or "minus" from the receiver, and the black one - to the power supply minus.

The ammeter will only show a value when a receiver is connected.
Well, unless you connected this ammeter (those two thick wires) to the plus and minus of the power supply.
Then it will not show anything, because you have broken the shunt (and maybe not only).

lukaszek9876 wrote:

I know how to connect to show voltage, but I do not know how to connect an ammeter

We connect the voltmeter in parallel to the power supply, and the ammeter in series with the receiver. Thick cables are used to measure the current (max 10A), and thinner ones - to measure the voltage. The diagram I have posted shows exactly this. So what's the problem?
As the power supply to the meter in this case is taken from the tested source, we do not connect the thin black wire (minus) as it is already connected with a thick black wire. The meter power supply (thin red) and the positive test lead (thin yellow) are connected to the power supply plus (e.g. the rectifier you wrote about).

Here is another connection diagram from the Electrode:
https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/7983994200_1520329132.jpg

One more point from my side. It is about measuring high currents. With a typical multimeter, you only need to take these measurements for a few seconds. So I do not know how this particular module will behave in the rectifier. When we charge a large battery and set the current, say 8 ÷ 10A, will nothing bad happen to it after a few hours of charging?

zybex wrote:

When we charge a large battery and set the current, say 8 ÷ 10A, will nothing bad happen to it after a few hours of charging?

I believe that there is no right to be damaged. A 1 cm long wire with a diameter of 2 mm is used as a shunt in the device, so it will not overheat for sure.

brofran wrote:

[The shunt in the device uses a 1 cm long wire with a diameter of 2 mm, so it will not overheat for sure.

Similar shunts are used in multimeters and, however, recommend short-term measurements at maximum current. Perhaps, however, it is more related to the measurement cables themselves.

there is only one thing the schematics are ok only straight under the bridge, you can't connect it, a capacitor must be used without it, because without a filter it does not work and for the rectifier it is a weak topic because the voltage jumps and the amperage

In the end, what was it: linear or log potentiometer?
I plan to buy 2x 10k and additionally 2x 1k

Linear will do. At the same time for the current - if you do not plan the maximum values, you can possibly give the current control and smaller ones - 4.7 + 1 in my opinion, or add a parallel constant with 20k - but then the characteristics will change a bit.

Hello
I have Xl4016 converters and 2x 10k and 2x 1k potentiometers. The power supply I will use for this is 19v and 4.74A. I am asking for advice on how to connect the potentiometers so that the fine and coarse adjustment work.
Thanks for the help

jendrus147 wrote:

I am asking for advice on how to connect the potentiometers so that the fine and coarse adjustment work.

See the front page of this topic

I would like to ask for help in connecting.

kj1 wrote:

See the front page of this topic

You have a drawing there. It couldn't be easier.

Maybe a multi-turn potentiometer can be used