SOFAR 8kW PV Installation: Opinions, Durability, Failures & Experiences with Inverters

radar1967 wrote:

I will add graphs of currents.

You don't have to, everything is quite clear. You wrote it yourself on the chart above.
The current did not really flicker, just a different value is displayed.
Probably, switching the jumpers interferes with the program, which shows what would be if it could be, but it is not.
The theory that there are two hardware versions seems to be confirmed.

Krzychooo wrote:

Can you show a monthly chart like mine?

Added after 15 [minutes]:

2021.

And that you got along one showed monthly and the other showed annual

prose wrote:

Krzychooo wrote:

Can you show a monthly chart like mine?

Added after 15 [minutes]:

2021.

After all, I showed the monthly January 2022 and additionally the entire last year.

And that's ok, I thought it was quoting Krzychoo because that's how it looks together

prose wrote:

prose wrote:

Krzychooo wrote:

Can you show a monthly chart like mine?

Added after 15 [minutes]:

2021.

After all, I showed the monthly January 2022 and additionally the entire last year.

These graphs show only what the inverter sent to the server, if they do not match the meter of the Power Plant, they are worth nothing. When it comes to the full efficiency of panels in winter, for example in January, it is possible to achieve this. 1- panels have to be cold with that in winter no problem. 2- the right angle of incidence of light, i.e. a right angle of 90 *. In Poland, the sun in December is around 14 *, in January around 20 *, in February around 30 *, i.e. the panels must have an angle of around 85 * to 60 * so in Poland it is not installed because the sun shines briefly and despite the maximum efficiency of the panels, the monthly yield will be small. In Poland, it is best to install between 30 * and 40 * then the sun is between 60 * and 50 *, i.e. 5 months a year from April to August, then despite higher panel temperatures, which means their lower efficiency but twice as much sun, the yields are much bigger than in winter. Regarding what my colleague 'prose' wrote that he has panels at an angle of 35 * the best month in terms of the angle of incidence of light is July, but then it is hot and the panels will rarely or never reach nominal power. As for the 25 * angle, as my colleague 'leon3029' wrote that they work like crazy, these panels are only lying on the roof at this time of the year.

radar1967 wrote:

As for the angle of 25 * .... these panels only lie on the roof at this time of the year.

But don't forget that when they lie flat or nearly flat, they work best in diffused light.
The difference to the oblique ones is really big.
Of course, there is nothing like perfectly positioned, or on trackers, but that's not what I wanted.

And I would like to draw your attention to the path of light in December and June, that is, in the shortest and longest days.
Assuming that the atmosphere layer of about 80 km is important from the point of view of obstacles for light,
we have 91 km in June and 286 km in December, of course, for a specific latitude.
These numbers are for my installation located at ~ 52 ° parallel.
The difference is considerable because it is 3.14 times greater. Convergence with the number ? (pi) - random.
Assuming some state of pollution in the atmosphere (e.g. a volcanic eruption somewhere on Earth) the impact is huge.
That is, this path is 3.14 times greater, because then the scattered light is of importance.
I hope this data is shown below with a suitable drawing. (Rg 6371 km = mean radius of the Earth's geoid).

Anyway, I asked for it prose o January chart (thanks) only for weather-performance comparisons,
without going into details, and what for.

I would also like to show the real influence of diffused light on the results of energy production.
I have a neighbor who has just installed 35 panels on two slopes of an unfavorably located roof.
To the east (97 °) it has 15 pieces, and to the west (277 °) it has 20 pieces. Panels of 345Wp, so in total it has 12,075 Wp .
For me, two thongs of 13 pieces = 26 in total give 8.060 Wp . Both inverters are the same SOFARY 8.8.
The proportion of installed capacity is 1.5 in favor of the neighbor (G18). But in the sun, I have much more,
but in the clouds he (exactly 1.5 times more). The conclusion is that the position of the panels is very important,
but only in good weather conditions. In bad, it doesn't really matter.
I know, maybe it's nothing new, but it's backed up by data.

Below is a chart from 2 days in December. One in full sun and the other in overcast.
My installation on the charts is G19, my neighbor - G18.
In June I will make the same chart for the 2 extreme days.
A fruitful analysis.

What does the changed file from sofarpolska safetyVolt do?

Anyone help on the topic of the power bank for Sofara HYD 5KTL-3PH?
I know that the Amass GTX3000 kit works, but it is terribly expensive ... I'm looking for the cheapest option - a replacement that will work.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3870963.html#19874248

Hello, if the voltage has increased over 253 v on one of the phases, should the inverter reset or do you need to turn it off and on? Since 10 am, the voltage has increased several times, the inverter has reset twice and is now turned off .. I cannot turn it off at this point. Hasn't been producing energy since 11am

damian1987rr wrote:

the inverter should reset or do you need to turn off the switch and turn on?

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3605752-900.html#19650573

I have a sofar 8.8 inverter. Hint how should mppt be set up? On or off? When is it better to turn it on and when is it better to turn it off? What are the setting rules? Generally, my panels are unshaded in one plane to the south. However, there is a lantern in front of the house and when the sun goes low, the lantern gives me a shadow over several panels. As a rule, the shadow's "line" moves across the roof and catches on 3-4 panels. (there are 27 panels in two loops)

Hi,
I have an 8.8KTL inverter and 2 strings, one is 8 panels, the other 10 (Longi LR4-72HPH 450W). Everything on a flat roof at an angle of 15 degrees towards the ES 140 °. I still have the option of adding 2 panels, please write to me what would be a better solution:

1. Divide the strings of 10 panels evenly
2. Division 8 and 12 items

Panel parameters
Open circuit voltage (Voc / V) 49.3
Voltage at maximum power (Vmp / V) 41.5
Intensity at maximum power (Imp / A) 20.7

Thanks

acros82 wrote:

Hi,
I have a 8.8KTL inverter and 2 strings, one is 8 panels, the other 10 (Longi LR4-72HPH 450W). Everything on a flat roof at an angle of 15 degrees towards the ES 140 °. I still have the option of adding 2 panels, please write to me what would be a better solution:

1. Divide the strings of 10 panels evenly
2.Division 8 and 12 items

Panel parameters
Open circuit voltage (Voc / V) 49.3
Voltage at maximum power (Vmp / V) 41.5
Intensity at maximum power (Imp / A) 20.7

Thanks

Divide evenly.

Hi,
I have invert 5.5 ktl-X and software 1.70. How can I update it to version 2.20?
Where can I download the firmware?

greetings

Rustic

maciek.mr wrote:

Where can I download the firmware?

In the same thread https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3605752-840.html#19486922

How long does it take to update? Because dsp is updating for a few minutes each, and the arm is already several minutes hanging on "Updating arm ...."

U didn't go all together in a few minutes, but I remember others had a problem with it sometimes, described in the same thread earlier.
Look a little, it doesn't hurt ...
Just in case, compare the files from this package. This is the original from the distributor.

Hi,

the exact same one I downloaded is identical. And "Updating ARM ..." is still hanging. I'll probably have to turn it off. My inverter was version 1.70

Now it's turned off and just goes into the loop, turns on the screen, flashes three LEDs and turns off. What can I do? downgrade is an option?

maciek.mr wrote:

He just falls into the loop, turns on the screen, blinks with three LEDs and turns off

Probably too late, it's getting dark already. There must be a stable DC power supply, i.e. try it in the morning after the inverter turns on stably.
Maybe it will start with a new soft, check the menu. In the meantime, read the forum about this ARM issue.

I would like to ask if anyone knows how these 1-phase Sofars behave at lower voltages.
The catalog gives the MPPT operating voltage range 50-500V and starting voltage 70V. But additionally they say "Full Power MPPT Voltage Range"
SOFAR 2200TL-G3 - 200-450V
SOFAR 2700TL-G3 - 250-500V
SOFAR 3000TL-G3 - 275-500V
SOFAR 3300TL-G3 - 300-500V
and I'm not sure what this parameter means exactly. It has already appeared in this thread, but there seems to be no explanation. Sure it's the voltages needed to reach full power, but what's going on below? It is known that the inverters are a bit less efficient with a lower load, but these are rather small values. Can any major problems with the voltages given below be expected here?

At the moment I have room for 6 panels, I am looking for 450-560W models. But the more powerful ones usually have too much current or are unavailable, so I think it will be around 6 * 450W, which is 2700W.
The 200 with a hook will probably achieve it, but in extreme NOCT conditions at high temperatures it is barely.
Is this inverter still suitable for such a set of panels?
And the stronger ones can also be used? It is true that it will be even further from "Full MPPT Voltage Range", but also the power of the panels will be less than the full power of the inverter.
I am asking for stronger ones as well, because I would like to leave myself the option of rebuilding the installation with the change of location, then maybe 8 panels will fit better, which would already give 3.6kWp, so the two highest models would be more suitable in terms of power.

Thanks for the hints and comments.

Focus on what voltage you get from the 6 panels. Choose panels with the highest possible open circuit voltage, preferably around 50V, the power that will be installed is relative and do not focus on it because what if you have higher power and the panels with low voltage will work poorly.
However, when choosing an inverter, completely do not look at the starting voltage parameter, and it is so important for sunlight to work. The fact that it will turn on and shine like this without production is no consolation or benefit.

@A.T. PRO
This is why I am asking how these inverters work with lower voltage, because maybe it does not make sense at all?
I'm not looking at the takeoff voltage. But these inverters have the MPPT operating voltage range of 50-500V given, which is quite a large range, so I ask how it is in practice, because they do not provide more precise data. The panel with 50V in open circuit has 33V at NOCT and high temperature, which is on the border or below the "Full power MPPT voltage range" parameter for a set of 6. whether it is necessary to narrow down the selection, or not to consider such a set at all.

Hi.
I have a 3.3 KTL-X inverter and 10 300W panels in 1 string. I would like to set the inverter to 6.6 and expand the installation. The same panels are no longer available for purchase. Can I connect completely different panels to the second MPPT - eg 370W? I would like to expand the installation by 4kW.

You can connect the second string on completely different panels. In the settings you will have that the strings are separate. But is it so easy to switch from 3kW to 6kW? I don't know if the coils can handle it

M.

maciek.mr wrote:

You can connect the second string on completely different panels. In the settings you will have that the strings are separate. But is it so easy to switch from 3kW to 6kW? I don't know if the coils can handle it
M.

Thank you for your answer. Yes, 3.3 to 6.6 are exactly the same inverters. Changing the jumper that defines the inverter type will of course void the warranty. The topic of changing the settings also appeared in this thread.

rustin wrote:

What does the changed file from sofarpolska safetyVolt do?

Setting the network voltage parameters from min to max V in a given country. Do you have this file?

radar1967 wrote:

I will add graphs of currents.

radar1967 I have a question, if you had factory jumpers, did you have a situation that cut your hills? and is the AC side power higher than 5.5kw now? I am asking because I have panels for 6.15kW and sofar 5.5 and I am wondering whether to switch to 6.6 because yesterday I got 100% lcd and the max power is 5.51kW.

As you can see from the diagram, changing the jumper only changed the ammeter constant (higher powers have a different shunt) but the effective output current is the same.

Janusz_kk wrote:

As you can see from the diagram, changing the jumper only changed the ammeter constant (higher powers have a different shunt) but the effective output current is the same.

So changing the configuration probably won't do anything for me. There is only the placebo effect.