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QTouch WiFi switch plugged into L cable only - test, interior, diagram

p.kaczmarek2 21900 60

TL;DR LABEL_AI_GENERATED

  • The qTouch WiFi/RF433 glass wall switch works from the L wire only, so it can be installed without an N conductor.
  • Inside, an ESP8285 with 1MB flash handles WiFi, while an RF433 chip simulates touch presses and keeps paired remotes working after firmware changes.
  • The mains side uses a triac design with a BTA16-600B and MOC3063, plus an MPX 0.33uF capacitor "adapter" and 3 x 1000uF smoothing capacitance.
  • Tasmota flashed successfully over UART; pin mapping was D6 for relay, D7 for LED, and D3 for button, and the RF remote still worked.
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.
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  • Buzzing capacitor adapter at the chandelier

    #31 19759383
    Mateo_19_07
    Level 19  
    Posts: 461
    Help: 16
    Rate: 25
    solder2112 wrote:
    Hello. I recently purchased exactly the same light switch and while everything works properly, when switching on, the capacitor ( adapter ) starts to buzz quite a lot, after a while the buzzing slightly quiets but is still audible, the capacitor is plugged in at the chandelier, nowhere I know of anyone having a similar problem.


    Hello, I also have an identical problem - capacitor connected at the lamp. I would appreciate any hints :) .
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  • Reverse wiring likely damaged the switch module

    #32 19774079
    Ziku5
    Level 9  
    Posts: 15
    Rate: 3
    Hello.
    I have a 3 point light switch and everything was ok just this buzzing of the "adapter" when lighting. I thought I would disconnect it and reconnect it, but in reverse.... and it happened... The light switch no longer works properly, more precisely the wifi network does not detect it, the backlight does not work and the light on the first of the three touch buttons is on all the time and none of them react. What do you think could have happened?

  • Looking for Tasmota config for dual-button QTouch module

    #33 20067067
    bpiq
    Level 14  
    Posts: 127
    Help: 2
    Rate: 25
    Dear Sirs,
    I am looking for a configuration to tasmota for a Q-touch module with two buttons.
    For the single button module it is:
    {"NAME":"Qtouch","GPIO":[289,0,0,32,0,0,0,0,224,0,0,0,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1}

    GPIO # Component
    GPIO00 Led 2
    GPIO01 None
    GPIO02 None
    GPIO03 Button 1
    GPIO04 None
    GPIO05 None
    GPIO09 None
    GPIO10 None
    GPIO12 Relay 1
    GPIO13 None
    GPIO14 None
    GPIO15 None
    GPIO16 None
    GPIO17 None



    and for the double I can't find :( anywhere

  • Trial-and-error Tasmota relay and button mapping

    #34 20067085
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    @bpiq and what's the problem to open the case and trace the paths or just experimentally set e.g. Relay 2, Relay 3, Relay 4 and Relay 5 to different pins, restart Tasmota and through the GUI click and see if any of the Relays switch anything? If not, you then set them to the next pins.... and so on until you hit it. You won't break it after all.

    This is what I often do and have done when describing something on Elektroda. By trial and error you can find both Relay and Button.

    If you encounter a specific problem I will try to help, if you have an eye on a smart device that is worth testing then also let me know, I will order it, test it and describe it on Elektroda , but I think that exactly the configuration of Tasmota is easy to find by yourself....

    as for the posts of the predecessors.... with me the adapter doesn't buzz, so it's hard for me to say anything
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  • #35 20067203
    bpiq
    Level 14  
    Posts: 127
    Help: 2
    Rate: 25
    I know that by trial and error I will eventually arrive at the settings. I didn't want to "kick the door open" if someone had already done it. I opened up the module of course - the board is double sided and I can't trace the paths :( .


    After dozens of reboots and configuration changes:
    {"NAME":"Qtouch 2G","GPIO":[32,0,0,0,0,225,33,0,224,0,0,0,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1}

    may be useful to someone :) .

  • Buzzing traced to the light source, not adapter

    #36 20202948
    Karpov
    Level 11  
    Posts: 80
    Rate: 4
    bpiq wrote:
    .
    After dozens of reboots and configuration changes:
    {"NAME":"Qtouch 2G","GPIO":[32,0,0,0,0,225,33,0,224,0,0,0,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1}

    may be useful to someone :)
    .

    Do you have blue button illumination (off state) with this template configuration ?

    Regarding the buzzing of the adapter - this also occurs at my place but ONLY on one circuit. Swapping the adapter does not help. Swapping the switch also does not help. It seems that the light source is to blame.
  • #37 20203221
    bpiq
    Level 14  
    Posts: 127
    Help: 2
    Rate: 25
    I didn't pay attention to the backlight in the off state - I didn't need it - the switches are in the kitchen where the motion sensor works as you enter. I checked just now - there is no backlighting with this configuration, so I didn't finish the job properly :( .

  • LED backlight extinguishes on opposite relay activation

    #38 20203410
    Karpov
    Level 11  
    Posts: 80
    Rate: 4
    Set LED1 on GPIO13 - a blue backlight will appear.

    The problem is that with this setting not everything is as it should be.
    The blue backlight of the second switch goes out when the first one is activated (blue -> red) and vice versa.

    I don't know if I've described this clearly, the following described states:
    [I have stayed with the nomenclature from tasmot for clarity].

    Both circuits off:
    • If relay1 is OFF, led1 is BLUE
    • If relay 2 is OFF, led2 is BLUE

    First circuit on, second circuit off:
    • If relay1 is ON, led1 is RED
    • If relay 2 is OFF, led2 is OUT <-a should continue to light up blue

    First circuit off, second circuit on:
    • If relay1 is OFF, led1 is OUT. <- a should continue to light up blue
    • If relay 2 is ON, led2 is RED

    Both circuits on:
    • If relay1 is ON, led1 is RED
    • If relay 2 is ON, led2 is RED

    :?: :?: :?: :?:

    Please check if it behaves the same way for you.
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  • #40 20279466
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    I still use SetOption13 1 on my switches - this turns on the immediate response to touch of the touch button (rather than after 'unclicking').
    Quote:
    .
    SetOption13 - Allow immediate action on single button press
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  • #41 20436200
    tekenxp
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Hey
    There is a buzzer inside, is there any way to control it ? E.g. to make it sound in relation to some HA event ?

  • Buzzer is tied to RF controller, not WiFi module

    #42 20436300
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    To the best of my knowledge, this buzzer is connected to the circuit from the RF (but not to the receiver itself, only to the controller) and its role is to inform about the pairing with the RF remote control. It is not connected to the IO of the WiFi module, or at least it was not connected in those products I tested (from 6 different switches).

    This buzzer, like the RF itself, continues to work unchanged, even after changing the firmware to Tasmota.
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  • Missing neutral may prevent WiFi pairing

    #43 20546123
    powalar200
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Good afternoon, I am a complete layman in electrics I have searched the forums and found nothing.
    I have purchased the exact switch given in the description and tried to connect to the remote, however the switch does not respond to anything. It does not make a "sound". Connected by an electrician who knows his stuff. Does anyone have an idea what could be the reason why the switch does not respond to anything else and does not give any sign for pairing ?
    The touch generally works but I can't connect to the remote ?

  • Possible WiFi-only version without RF433 support

    #44 20546150
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    A long press of the touch does not result in a loud "beep" sound?
    Maybe there is a version without a buzzer. Try pairing "in the dark", press the button longer and then press the button on the remote control. Then check that the remote control works.

    If the control still doesn't work, it's possible that you got the version with WiFi only, without RF433 support. This happened to me once before. I got something different from what I bought. Someone who knows could take the front end off (before networking) and show pictures of the PCB here.

    Also worth checking if there is a battery in the RF433 remote. But in general the first "beep" of pairing should be after a long press of the touch anyway.
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  • Pairing mode may require the adapter plugged in

    #45 20546164
    powalar200
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    And if it doesn't have an option for a remote control and it would only have wifi should it enter some kind of pairing mode ?
    That is, after a few seconds it should blink or just make a sound ?
    This one just doesn't do that.

    Does it matter that I don't have the adapter plugged in ? The electrician said it is only responsible for the LED bulbs so they don't blink.

    I don't know if I don't know how to hold it or if it just can't be paired 😅.

  • Check whether it is a WiFi model and enter pairing mode

    #46 20546175
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    The switch with the WiFi option should enter pairing mode with the phone app. You have a description of how to enter pairing mode in the manual, this may vary between models. The lack of a connected light, or "adapter" as some strangely call it, should not interfere with pairing with WiFI.

    Pairing with WiFi generally does not result in a sound, at most the LED on the switch may blink quickly or slowly (depending on the pairing mode)

    Do you have a manual for it? The phone app does not see it?

    Remember that there are also touch switches without WiFi in this range from QTouch. These are considerably cheaper than those with WiFi, but you can also buy them. Perhaps you just bought one by accident?

    Incidentally, I see that in the first post you have both a photo of the instructions for my switch and a description of the pairing, both with the RF remote and with the app .
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  • #47 20546200
    powalar200
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Yes, I have the instructions from the box. Myself and girlfriend have tried pairing with the remote and wifi but we are failing so I decided to get advice here.

    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/5690922300_1681849611.jpg

    The only thing I managed to get, I don't have the tiny screwdrivers to unscrew further.
  • #48 20546211
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    We are interested in the plate that is together with the front. The other one. The one you had to take off. A glance at it will tell you if there is a wifi module, if there is a buzzer, if there is RF.

    Added after 45 [seconds]:

    First post - paragraph "WiFi board", this is what we are interested in as we want to check if this is the version with WiFi and with buzzer.
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  • #49 20546213
    powalar200
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    OK, I've fixed on those switches in the frame kit was a socket without wifi or remote control. Thank you for making me aware ^^
    Now just after ordering the good ones !
    Greetings and thanks for your help :) .
  • #50 20546223
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    Remember that you are more likely to have the right to return a product purchased online. Some mail order services even offer a free return if you have purchased a package from them. And for future reference, check product descriptions (yes, descriptions - I have already seen products with the WiFi keyword in the title, even though there was nothing about WiFi in the description).
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  • Sonoff T1 2CH module fixes Tasmota mapping

    #51 20604228
    mbak89
    Level 12  
    Posts: 38
    Rate: 4
    Hi,
    Like my colleague bpiq, I have uploaded a tasmota to a dual channel switch. Unfortunately the configuration given above did not work, but everything started to work nicely after selecting the module version "Sonoff T1 2CH Module". On this setting, the switch responds correctly and lights up with the correct button colours. The only change was also the aforementioned "SetOption13 1" setting, so that the buttons respond immediately when touched.
  • #52 20604267
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
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    Could you then provide the Tasmota template or a screenshot of the Configure Module? It is possible that the manufacturer has changed which GPIO the buttons, relays etc are connected to.

    SetOption13 1 (instant button reaction) is indeed very useful for touch buttons.
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  • Touch sensitivity too high behind glass panel

    #53 20798489
    bartekj42
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Hi. And have any of you had the problem of the light turning on by itself?
    At my place it lights up spontaneously on these switches. After removing the panel the problem stops. Can anyone suggest what to do about it? I have already tried gluing foil on the buttons and printing distances so that the button is further away from the glass. If I print 3.5mm thick, the keys do not work. If I print 3.3mm thick, it's a bit better, but the touch doesn't work as expected (it's difficult to turn on the light).
    Thank you in advance for any advice.

  • Tasmota stops self-activation but touch is intermittent

    #54 20800518
    mbak89
    Level 12  
    Posts: 38
    Rate: 4
    Sorry for the long delay :) .
    The template I have entered is rather strange:
    {"NAME":"Generic","GPIO":[255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255],"FLAG":15,"BASE":18}
    But I didn't change anything after selecting the "Sonoff T1 2CH Module" version.
    As for the problem of colleague bartekj42 at my place the self-activation was on the original softy when I had the Ewelink application plugged in.
    After changing to tasmote it does not occur.
    However, I have another problem: sometimes the touch does not respond. I have to press/tap the button several times to get it to work.

    Regards
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  • #55 20800525
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    mbak89 wrote:
    .
    However, I have another problem: sometimes the touch does not respond. I have to press/tap the button several times for it to catch.
    .
    Do you have instant touch response enabled, SetOption13?
    See:
    https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Commands/
    Configuration options SetOption13 for immediate button press reaction.
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  • #56 20801813
    mbak89
    Level 12  
    Posts: 38
    Rate: 4
    Yes, I have SetOption13 enabled. I turned it off right after the flash. I suspect there may be something going on with the touchpad itself.
  • #57 20801849
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
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    If you have two such switches with compatible "touch" plates then you can try swapping and find out
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  • Tasmota startup disco likely from failing capacitor

    #58 20802545
    bartekj42
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    I immediately changed the soft to Tasmote. When I now switch off the electricity in the house and switch it back on it makes disco in the house. After a while it stops. I have already had the problem of a light on all the time on one of the switches. After dismantling it turned out that a 1000u/16V low esr capacitor had fired. I replaced it and it started. I also have the option pointed out by my colleague p.kaczmarek switched on.

  • Blown 1000uF capacitor replaced to restore startup

    #59 20802549
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Posts: 14760
    Help: 659
    Rate: 12887
    bartekj42 wrote:
    After disassembly, I found that a 1000u/16V low esr capacitor had fired. I replaced it and it started up.
    .
    Classics: How do I fix a smart device that crunches, squeaks and makes strange noises?
    In OpenBeken on the BK7231, it's worth turning on PowerSave 1 to take some of the strain off the power supply.
    In Tasmot, on the other hand, you can enable DynamicSleep if it is not already enabled:
    https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Dynamic-Sleep/
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  • #60 20803444
    mbak89
    Level 12  
    Posts: 38
    Rate: 4
    I took the switch apart, nothing looks damaged. Unfortunately I do not have a second board. It's not something that prevents use but sometimes a little annoying :) the consolation is that remotely it works perfectly :) and it does at least not switch on by itself :) .
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Topic summary

LABEL_AI_GENERATED
Discussion of a QTouch WiFi/RF433 touch light switch that works without an N conductor by using only the L wire and a capacitive dropper/adapter. The topic covers teardown, internal construction, triac-based output stage, ESP8285 WiFi module, eWeLink operation, flashing Tasmota, GPIO/template discovery, and wiring diagrams. Participants identify the inverter transistor as an MJE13001-class SOT-23 device, discuss the role of the 10 µF/400 V capacitor, zener diodes, optotriac/triac circuitry, minimum load requirements, and reliability issues such as buzzing, spontaneous switching, failed capacitors, and burned LEDs. Later posts provide working Tasmota configurations for single and dual-gang versions, SetOption13 for immediate touch response, LedPower settings for backlight behavior, and note that some units may be WiFi-only or have RF433/buzzer differences.
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.
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