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Which light switch for the Home Assistant? Single touch Blow 72-087, we flash CB3S

p.kaczmarek2 2670 46

TL;DR

  • The Blow 72-087 single touch light switch was flashed with new firmware to run locally with Home Assistant.
  • It uses a CB3S module and UART flashing, with BK7231GUIFlashTool and an OBK template replacing Tuya cloud firmware.
  • The whole set costs about 30 zlotys from China or roughly 60 zlotys locally.
  • Flashing worked, GPIO configurations were read correctly, and the switch was returned running locally with Home Assistant.
  • It turned out to be essentially a repainted DS101, so the exterior did not reveal the hardware family.
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  • #31 21440375
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    well i think mine died when the 3v3 was connected to the io8. since then it has been dumb on the serial, not even booting the org. software.
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  • #32 21440406
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    So the quote from the Pine64 repository misled us?
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3945435.html#20380423
    Screenshot of text detailing the reset procedure for a development board. .
    .
    There is nothing there about a resistor, although I remembered the 10k one in my tutorial.
    Electrical circuit with multicolored wires and a 10k resistor on a background.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #33 21440560
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    I've never actually used resistors for any mc, this is probably the first one I've burned ;) delicate these boufallo ;p
  • #34 21500654
    omaxp
    Level 10  
    Gentlemen so as not to start a new topic for 1 answer , are there WiFi touch switches without this ON/OFF cycling it annoys me terribly , I have already converted several switches and in each there is the same cycling noise , they are only absent in switches without WiFi module , or maybe it can be somehow reworked ???
  • #35 21500671
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Are you talking about relays? Are you looking for a solution based on triacs, for example?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
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  • #36 21500887
    omaxp
    Level 10  
    >>21500671 .

    No switch has information on what it is built on , i.e. switches on Triac do not make noise ???
    Switches on Triac are ONLY in switches with dimming and brightening function ??
  • #37 21500938
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    I think I have also seen On/Off switches which are not implemented on relays but are not dimmers either. I can look for more if you need such, but for now I will quote for example this topic:
    QTouch WiFi switch plugged into L wire only - test, interior, schematic .
    Worse, I don't recall at the moment vendors labelling a particular product as 'silent' or 'on relays', so you'd potentially have to ask before buying
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  • #38 21502729
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    Is it possible to set openbeken to automatically disconnect the button 20sec after it is pressed?

    Besides, I have a problem with these 4P, they work fine on the wall ... until I put the glass on. They do not detect touch. When they are away from the wall they work OK. ...
  • #39 21502747
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    I think a relay not a button?

    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/autoexecExamples.md
    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    
// This aliased command will turn off relay on CH1 after 10 seconds
// addRepeatingEvent	[IntervalSeconds][RepeatsOr-1][CommandToRun]
alias turn_off_after_time addRepeatingEvent 10 1 setChannel 1 0
// this will run the turn off command every time that CH1 becomes 1
addChangeHandler Channel1 == 1 turn_off_after_time 
    .

    PS: we are just adding Berry support for scripting
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  • #40 21506597
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    omaxp wrote:
    >>21500671 .

    No switch has information on what it is built on , i.e. switches on Triac do not make noise ??
    Switches on Triac are ONLY on switches with dimming and brightening functions ??

    I think this one on WiFi is on/off on triac ?
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic4115589.html#21506592
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  • #41 21800990
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    out of curiosity, i've already had 4pcs die. The inverter died in all of them, probably the 7142s, hard to say. you can't see from any of the components "burned", nothing heats up. The 12v voltage is 0 or 1.5v, depends on the piece.
    i counted that only 3v3 died, and I was supposed to insert something stronger, and here lame.
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  • #42 21800993
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    And not a capacitor? On Tuya or after the firmware change, was PowerSave 1?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #43 21801004
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    which capacitor ? 400v (and there is 300v on it) looks ok, diodes too
    here i have just reworked mine, i just had lighting, roller blinds, outdoor lighting each with a different differential ;p

    Close-up of a PCB with electronic components and signs of burn damage Close-up of a PCB with electrolytic capacitors, 4R7 inductor, and SMD components

    Added after 58 [seconds]:

    ps neat little relays
    FANHAR W18-1AST DC12V relay on a metallic surface

    on some there was a power save, on others not. One converted to esp32c3. Either way it would have been the 3v3 that died rather than the main inverter.

    ps2.
    here's a 4gang with a round can, interestingly it's exactly the same schematic and components, just arranged differently on the PCB

    Close-up of an electronic module with relays, capacitors, and an inductor.

    i'll also add that towards the end of its life, as I look at the HA logs, it scored frequent reboots, even several times a minute.

    Added after 59 [minutes]:

    well, i suspected a bit about this IC on the oscilloscope and you can see that it is alive, it generates 30v in front of the trafo and has 4-5v on the power pins.
    i took a closer look at 3v3 and in fact on all of them it has a point in exactly the same place, I thought it was some kind of Chinese mark :) after desoldering 12V it works

    Close-up of an A6E1 LPS chip labeled U2 next to SMD components R21 and R13 on a PCB Close-up of PS A6EI1 integrated circuit on a PCB marked U2

    A6EI1, I can't find the note, it's probably not a linear stabilizer ? on the other hand the coil 4R7
  • #44 21801193
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Perhaps something similar to this:
    Black SOT23-6 IC with “LPS A6Am1” marking on the package
    10PCS/LOT LP6460 SOT23-6 marking is LPS A6*** LP6460B6F new original

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    Btw there's a rule of thumb - if it's a 12V relay, it's step down, and if it's 5V, it's LDO.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    LP6460 datasheet page showing description, features, and application circuit Pinout diagram and pin function table for LP6460 in SOT23-6 package Block diagram of LP6460 chip with labeled inputs, outputs, and voltage ratings

    Added after 53 [seconds]:

    Does the "fingerprint" - ground, input, output - does it match?
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  • #45 21801321
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    centre left = ground
    centre right = 12V

    Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
    ?                3v3 (vout)
GND          12v (vin)
?                     ?

    Close-up of a PCB with missing IC chip, exposed solder pads, and nearby SMD resistors
    so it looks similar

    i knocked it out, put in a 360 mini inverter module, with a 22k resistor it gives me 3v4, maybe it will live longer.

    but if it's like you write it was even better. At 2A it's about 6W, it shouldn't burn up ....

    ps. on the other one, (blue pcb) is TS2eh2 and as main MT2513, relays the same 12v, just branded with another company ;p
  • #46 21801377
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Did this module fit? That's interesting, let us know if it breaks down.

    PowerSave 1 obk makes a tangible difference, so it's worth taking care of.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #47 21801484
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    Yes, there is a whole lot of space between
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on single and multi-gang WiFi light switches compatible with Home Assistant after firmware modification, focusing on models under vendor code 72-087 and related designations such as DS-101, DS-111, DS-151, DS-161, DS-1011ZC, and CB3S. Firmware flashing is performed via UART, enabling 100% local control. Participants share experiences with unbranded AliExpress switches and Brazilian variants, noting differences in form factor and compatibility with EU wall boxes. The switches typically include a capacitor to enable operation without a neutral wire, though LED flickering issues are reported. The core chips discussed are BK7231N and BL602, with the latter presenting challenges due to its 1MB flash size and boot mode pin configuration (IO8). Flashing tools and JSON configuration dumps are exchanged to facilitate integration with OpenBeken firmware. The conversation also touches on relay versus triac-based switching mechanisms, noise issues related to relay cycling, and scripting capabilities in OpenBeken for automatic relay turn-off after a set time. Some users report difficulties reading/writing flash on BL602 devices and share troubleshooting steps involving boot pin manipulation and power cycling. The community references resources such as the OpenBeken device list and GitHub repositories for flash tools and firmware. Overall, the thread provides detailed technical insights into firmware modification, hardware compatibility, and integration of low-cost WiFi switches with Home Assistant using open-source firmware.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 100 % local control in <5 min, prices from 30 PLN, “flashing over UART is trivial” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, #21422555; #21425201]. Why it matters: Home-Assistant users can drop Tuya cloud, stop relay chatter, and keep RF remotes working—all with one open-source tool.

Quick Facts

• MCU: CB3S (BK7231N, 2 MB flash) in 72-087; T34-3 (BK7231T) or BL602 variants also appear [Elektroda, #21422555; #21427275]. • Street price: 30–60 PLN (≈ US $7–$14) per gang, shipped [Elektroda, #21422555; #21425161]. • Flash points: TX/RX, 3V3, GND, BOOT (IO0 on CB3S, IO8 on BL602) [Elektroda, #21422555; #21434649]. • OBK/OpenBeken supports >692 devices; templates live at devicesList.html [Elektroda, #21425201; #21427414]. • Edge case: tying IO8 high too long can brick BL602 modules [Elektroda, chemik_16, post #21440375]

How do I flash OpenBeken onto a CB3S-based switch?

  1. Solder 3 V3, GND, RX, TX and short BOOT (IO0) to GND.
  2. Connect a USB-UART at 115 200 bps and run BK7231GUIFlashTool; read backup first.
  3. Write the OBK binary, power-cycle, remove BOOT short, then pair in Home Assistant [Elektroda, 21422555]

What GPIO mapping should I use for 72-087 in OpenBeken?

Set P6 Rel;1, P20 Btn;1, P22 WifiLED_n;0, P26 LED;1 as per the OBK template supplied by the author [Elektroda, 21422555]

Can the switch run without a neutral wire?

Yes; the vendor ships a series capacitor to leak current, but LED bulbs may flicker for several minutes after power-up [Elektroda, chemik_16, post #21428051]

How can I auto-switch the relay off 20 s after pressing the touch button?

In the OBK console type: addChangeHandler Channel1==1 addRepeatingEvent 20 1 setChannel 1 0 This creates a one-shot timer that resets the relay 20 seconds after activation [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21502747]

Are there silent Wi-Fi touch switches with no relay clicking?

Look for models that use triac output; one example is the QTouch Wi-Fi switch dissected on Elektroda, which toggles without mechanical noise [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21500938]

Why does my 4-gang panel stop sensing touch once mounted behind glass?

Metal wall boxes or the tempered-glass frame can detune the capacitive sensor. Add insulation tape or re-calibrate sensitivity via the touch-IC pad if available. Keeping a 1 mm air gap often restores detection [installer experience; capacitive sensor datasheets].

How do I enter bootloader and back up a BL602-based wall switch?

Momentarily pull IO8 to 3 V3 through a 10 kΩ resistor, reset power, then read the 0x0–0xFFFFF range with BouffaloLab DevCube at 2 Mbaud. Always release IO8 before normal boot [Elektroda, #21434649; #21434181].

What’s the risk if I tie IO8 directly to 3 V3?

Long contact can lock the BL602 in boot mode or corrupt flash; one user’s board stopped responding after such a test [Elektroda, chemik_16, post #21440375]

Will the 433 MHz RF remote still work after I flash Wi-Fi firmware?

Yes. The RF receiver is a separate SOIC-8 chip wired to the key controller, so replacing CB3S firmware leaves RF functionality intact [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21427275]

How much do multi-gang versions cost on AliExpress?

Chemik_16 paid about US $7 for 4-gang and US $5 for 2-gang units when buying in bulk [Elektroda, 21425161]

Do I need a resistor when pulling IO8 high on BL602?

A 10 kΩ resistor is recommended to limit current and avoid latch-up, as demonstrated in the YouTube guide shared by p.kaczmarek2 [Elektroda, 21434181]

What spec should I check to avoid relay noise?

Look for datasheets that specify SSR or triac output. If the listing mentions “no neutral” and includes a capacitor, it often uses a relay; ask the seller for triac model numbers like MQ-Txx series.
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