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eWeLink RGBCW bulb series flashing tutorial guide - BW2L module pinout, BL602

p.kaczmarek2 3348 26

TL;DR

  • BW2L eWeLink RGBCW LED bulbs, including EW-A60-15W and EW-E14, are flashed to run without the cloud and pair with Home Assistant.
  • The WiFi module uses a BL602 chip, and its flashing pads are on the back side, so the module must be desoldered before programming.
  • The bulbs cost about $4-5 each, and both E14 and E27 versions appear to use the same GPIO order for PWM color control.
  • After flashing, a BL602 access point appears, the module is soldered back, and full RGBCW control works.
  • LED-plate heat makes resoldering harder, so flux, leaded solder, and careful VDD/GND short checks are important.
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  • Two circular LED modules with visible yellow diodes and electronic components.
    eWeLink RGBCW LED bulbs series is often using BW2L WiFi module based on BL602 chip. Those bulbs are easy to disassemble, although flash pins are only accessible on the back side of the module, it has to be desoldered before flashing. Here I will show you how you can do it step by step, so the bulb can be run free from the cloud and paired with Home Assistant.

    So, let's consider bulbs used for this demonstration.
    Smart LED bulbs and their packaging.
    They can be bought for like 4-5$ each:
    Advertisement for the Ewelink Bulb E14 WiFi Zigbee smart light bulb.
    The bulb models are EW-A60-15W and EW-E14, the first one is using E27 format.
    They are also marked as C3009, but this is meaningless, because also Tuya bulbs are using the same marking. Even the one with LN882H:
    Two LED bulb boxes with labels and barcodes.
    Smart bulb model C3009 packaging.
    A person holding a disassembled LED lighting module, revealing the interior with electronics.
    So, to sum up:
    - model name "EW-" prefix (as in eWeLink) is important
    - C3009 is also used by Tuya and can be ignored
    - this guide is specifically for BW2L eWeLink lamps

    It's time to unpack one and flash it:
    Box of LED candle-shaped light bulbs.
    Box of smart candle LED lights on a white background.
    Smart bulb packaging with product information.
    Smart candle light bulb and its packaging.

    Initial teardown
    You only need to remove the dome. The WiFi module is on the LEDs board. You can pry the dome with flat screwdriver.
    Interior of an LED bulb with a visible printed circuit board.
    Electronic circuit with LEDs and a chip.

    Desoldering module
    Module flashing pins are on the back, so you need to desolder it. There are two methods.
    - hot air method - recommended. Just add flux and heat up pads and lift the module once solder melts:
    Soldering tool used to repair an LED circuit.
    - "tricky" method - if you add flux to the pads, and then add some leaded (Pb) solder, you can heat them up together until module is loose and can be easily removed
    Close-up of an LED bulb interior with visible diodes and circuit.
    Round circuit board with LEDs and electronic components on a white surface.
    Close-up of an LED board with LEDs and electronic components, and tweezers held nearby.
    Electronic circuit board in tweezers next to an LED bulb.
    For both methods, remember to clear later the pads with some solder wick:
    Close-up of a damaged LED board with visible diodes and a wire.


    BW2L pinout
    BW2L pinout is shown on this image made by @divadiow :
    Front and back view of the BW2L module with labeled pins for OpenBL602 programming.
    As you can see, required flashing pads are on the back, that's why we're desoldering it.

    Flashing the module
    First you need to solder wires. Tin the pads, also tin the wires, then solder them together. For more connection details, refer to our latest BL602 flashing guide:
    [ENGLISH] How to read and backup flash of BL602/BL702/etc device with BLDevCube? Burning tutorial, pinout
    [POLISH] How to read and backup flash of BL602/BL702/etc device with BLDevCube? Burning tutorial, pinout
    Our firmware can be downloaded there:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App
    For the backside pad roles, see BW2L pinout or my image below:
    Breadboard with connected wires and labels for BOOT, UART TX, UART RX, and UNUSED ports.
    Once you flash the module, make sure that BL602 access point appears before soldering it back in the bulb.

    Soldering module back to bulb
    Soldering module back may be a bit harder than usual, because the LED plate is able to dissipate large amounts of heat. That's how LEDs are cooled. Still, with some Pb solder (leaded solder has lower melting point) and flux it's still possible to do it. Try to heat each pad for a longer moment and apply solder. That's how it turned out for me:
    Close-up of an LED module with electronic components on a white PCB.
    Make sure to check for shorts, especially on VDD and GND!



    OBK template
    Considering that the bulb is using RGBCW and LEDs are controlled via PWM pins, and there is no more than 5 available GPIOs on the BW2L, there is really not many options in which pins can be arranged. You just need to figure out which color is which, but from what I've tested, both E14 and E27 bulbs are using the same GPIO order:
    Code: JSON
    Log in, to see the code


    Final result
    Here's short presentation of working bulb:



    Full RGBCW controls are working.

    More information
    See our tutorials on Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom
    Also check our devices list: https://openbekeniot.github.io/webapp/devicesList.html

    Summary
    That's how you can flash the eWeLink bulbs and run them free from the cloud. Later you can also pair them with Home Assistant.
    The procedure seemed hard, but in my opinion these bulbs are relatively easy to flash compared to some other models. The WiFi module is easily accesible and desoldering it is not that hard. I saw many other bulb models which required full bulb disassemble in order to flash, which is much more problematic and troublesome, as the bulb can be damaged permanently.
    Has anyone else tried flashing eWeLink bulbs? Let me know and share your experience. I can also help with any bulb firmware change, feel free to post if you need any help.

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    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 14451 posts with rating 12429, helped 650 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21475966
    divadiow
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    what a crazy coincidence, I got an EW-A60-15W recently too ;)

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Soldering module back may be a bit harder than usual, because the LED plate is able to dissipate large amounts of heat


    This was the cause of a little pain for me because I couldn't seem to get the hot air temp right for it to free, even with additional pb solder, which itself didn't seem to want to behave.
    Interior of an LED bulb with visible diodes and electronic components. Electronic circuit board with LED light sources on a printed circuit board. Round LED panel with a green protective filter.

    It taking too long should have been a warning - I blew the BL602 out of place 😮
    Electronic module with small components and BW2L marking.

    Managed to refloat and sort it. It still booted into factory, could be dumped and OpenBeken/OpenBL602 flashed.

    Ready to solder back:

    Close-up of a circuit board with LEDs arranged in a circular pattern.

    Yes, I know it's messy and the module should be further down onto the contacts
    Inside view of an LED lamp showing diodes and electronic circuitry.

    Added a bit of tape to stop it falling inside.

    I also went with @miegapele's new BL602 SDK build to see if it behaves itself
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/actions/runs/12794858548?pr=1487

    User interface of the OpenBL602 device with controls for adjusting LED light.
  • #3 21475980
    p.kaczmarek2
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    Which hot air station do you use?

    I've also had some issues due to, as said in first topic, the good heat dissipation of those boards. Even with soldering back the module, I had to clear up solder bridges several times as well.

    Is this BL602 new SDK mod ready to merge? I really need some help with testing that.

    I think I will try to order futher eWeLink bulbs, just to confirm if other models are also using the same design (BW2L on the top LEDs board).


    PS: Interesting thing that I forgot to mention - the board is marked "CB2L", so it used to be a Beken chip...

    Added after 15 [minutes]:

    Edit: hmm
    Offer of two versions of smart LED bulbs on a website.
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  • #4 21476028
    divadiow
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Which hot air station do you use?

    the basic 858D type. but I made a pb sausage before that and probably added too much additional solder. Should have stopped and wicked some off before hot air.

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Is this BL602 new SDK mod ready to merge?

    I haven't done much/any testing. I did think @miegapele wasn't happy with stability, but I just saw this https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/pull/1487#issuecomment-2593723977

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    the board is marked "CB2L", so it used to be a Beken chip

    seems to be a template bulb (packaging included) for quite a few variants. I've a matter bulb waiting to be posted about in a proper thread that is the same, but had a UAM022 Beken module and "CB2L" underneath too. This one: https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4032988-30.html#21231617

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Edit: hmm

    might not get it back together again but it would be interesting to see what eWeLink do with GU10s I guess.
  • #5 21476401
    p.kaczmarek2
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    858D is good, I've tested it here: https://openshwprojects.github.io/hotair/450c.html

    I've ordered this GU10 eWeLink and I already have one Tuya GU10 waiting for teardown. So we'll be able to make a comparison.

    I am not worried about putting them back together. In case of the previous GU10 bulb I converted, I have managed to get it working with E14 base:
    A soldering wire spool with wire next to an LED bulb on a table.
    Still, I wouldn't recommend doing such modification to anyone...
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  • #6 21477761
    divadiow
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    I've ordered this GU10 eWeLink and I already have one Tuya GU10 waiting for teardown

    place your bets. BL602 on main PCB or small ESP module 🤔

    or maybe BL602 small module not yet seen
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  • #7 21477880
    p.kaczmarek2
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    Why do you think ESP? Was there an instance of eWeLink device with ESP recently? I haven't seen anything like it. I've been getting eWeLink devices with ESP only in the past, like few years ago.

    I guess either BL602 or Beken.
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  • #9 21477982
    divadiow
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    I've these two. Not bulbs tho either
    SONOFF/eWeLink basic breaker ESP8285
    Printed circuit board of a Wi-Fi smart switch. Printed circuit board with electronic components and a blue wire. Box and module of Sonoff BasicR2 Wi-Fi Smart Switch.

    and this ESP8285 85V-250V/USB5V switch - EWB1CH-D1 - PSF-B04 module which I think I've seen on other things + Tasmota site

    Label with barcode on a package. Green printed circuit board with traces and soldered points. Relay on a green circuit board on a blue mat. Smart switch by Mumubiz, model EWB1CH-D1.
  • #10 21478103
    p.kaczmarek2
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    Interesting, eWeLink gateways were never a scope of my testing, so I may be wrong here. Altough much would also depend on the manufacturing date, because the old batches were certainly using ESP very often. There are still some like 5 years old now teardowns of eWeLink devices on Elektroda PL site with ESP chips:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3728094.html

    Right now I only see new batches coming with non-ESP chips often. For example, here's a teardown of new QTouch-branded wall switches that used to use ESP but are now using T34:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic4110013.html

    @divadiow my GU10 eWeLink bulb should be here relatively soon, but the question now is, what to order next? Are there any other types of eWeLink bulbs that I can check?
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  • #11 21478143
    divadiow
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    what to order next?

    ah dunno.
    Matter bulbs?
    Sonoffs that may have CKW04 but I dont think I could find SDK, maybe I didn't look hard enough. eg
    https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4086605.html
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/issues/374

    'Musical' bulbs with mic/speaker?
    How about some filament/antique/retro style bulbs?
    A plastic G9 might be less destructive than this horrible ceramic one, if there are any, maybe they get too hot so theyre all ceramic. https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4066624.html

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    Xiaomi bulbs?

    Added after 50 [seconds]:

    or do you mean to stick to eWeLink?
  • #12 21478166
    p.kaczmarek2
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    Matter bulbs seem to have a high risk of a locked ESP32, so that may not be efficient...

    Have you seen any "musical bulb" with mic/speaker that is WiFi-based, and not a Bluetooth one? G9 is a good idea, I may try it.

    Well, I was referring to eWeLink BL602 bulbs or, more broadly, devices, not to the all devices in general, but these are still good suggestions.
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  • #14 21478889
    p.kaczmarek2
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    Isn't it this bulb?


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  • #15 21478892
    divadiow
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    oh yeh! maybe it changed. oh well

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    I ordered B02-BL-A60
  • #16 21479288
    p.kaczmarek2
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    I don't know what went wrong, I did my best not to order duplicates, but I still got another 15W E27 eWeLink bulb today.
    I was sure that I ordered only one 15W, but second was 10W, but who knows... or maybe they sent me different one than I ordered.
    The one in first post is EW-A60-15W, the one I got now is EW-A60-15W-E.
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/FlashDumps/commit/aecddc4172e5e67c07f9685d35967f9dd60e8917
    Teardown:
    LED bulb packaging with technical specifications.
    LED bulb box with multiple informational labels.
    Smart Bulb packaging with labels and a barcode.
    Wi-Fi enabled LED bulb held in a hand.
    Close-up of an LED bulb's interior, held in a hand, showing diodes and a PCB.
    Circular printed circuit board with LED lights.
    Close-up of the interior of a circular printed circuit board with multiple LEDs and electronic components.
    Electronic module with LEDs and integrated circuits.
    LED board and an adjacent electronic module held by tweezers.
    A clamp holding a small electronic board with several soldered connections.
    PCB with soldered wires.
    Circuit board with LEDs and electronic components
    Close-up of a glowing LED light with visible electronic components on the circuit board.
    Round circuit board with LEDs emitting bright light.
    Close-up of a colorful LED diode with bright light spots.
    A glowing LED emitting purple light with visible electronic circuitry in a socket.
    If you want, you can also compare now this new flash dump with second E27 piece.
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  • #18 21486335
    p.kaczmarek2
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    GU10 eWeLink bulb arrived, last time to place your bets - do you think it will be BW2L @divadiow ?
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  • #19 21486364
    divadiow
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    do you think it will be BW2L @divadiow ?

    I'm sticking to ESP
  • #20 21486388
    p.kaczmarek2
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    EW-GU10-E , also marked as C3009
    LEDs and electronic circuit inside an LED bulb held in a hand.
    It has BW2L. Looks like a perfect GU10 bulb for flashing without full disassembly/
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/FlashDumps/commit/6117519977bc88973b96d85f57b494d8f4810623
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  • #21 21486414
    divadiow
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    oh nice. the ultimate GU10 for conversion.

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    I wonder if it uses the same firmware as the other two variants 🤔🤔🤔
  • #22 21486426
    p.kaczmarek2
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    The mentioned GPIO template works well on all eWeLink BW2L bulbs I've found so far.
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  • #24 21489845
    divadiow
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    EW-GU10-E , also marked as C3009

    same story as the other two too - 1.1.1 factory then offers update to 1.5.0

    Code: Text
    Log in, to see the code
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  • #25 21497991
    p.kaczmarek2
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    eWeLink Zigbee bulb arrived. It's the same setup, but with BZ2L. BL702. Flash backup:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/FlashDumps/commit/6ef2de56b85aef380ecef70585bdd13ecba9b089
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  • #26 21514827
    hxr33
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    >>21497991

    Hello, i just joined the community and i am still exploring the board. Really cool stuff that i am reading so far. I stumbled on this forum after buying some Ewelink GU10 bulbs with a BZ2L and BL702 module.

    you said you managed to flash it. What firmware did you flash on it and does the bulb work as intended and can be controlled using zigbee afterwards?
  • #27 21515396
    p.kaczmarek2
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    There is no real need to flash Zigbee version of IoT devices, as they can be paired with Zigbee2MQTT without flashing. What are you trying to achieve here?
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around flashing the eWeLink RGBCW LED bulbs, specifically the EW-A60-15W and EW-E14 models, which utilize the BW2L WiFi module based on the BL602 chip. Users share their experiences with disassembling the bulbs, desoldering the module, and flashing it to operate independently from the cloud, allowing integration with Home Assistant. Challenges such as heat dissipation during soldering and the risk of damaging components are highlighted. Participants also discuss the compatibility of other eWeLink models, the use of different soldering tools, and the potential for future modifications. The conversation includes insights on various eWeLink devices, including GU10 bulbs and Zigbee modules, and the firmware updates available for these products.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: These $4–5 eWeLink RGBCW bulbs are practical for DIY reflashing because, as the thread notes, "the WiFi module is easily accessible." This FAQ helps Home Assistant and OpenBeken users flash BW2L/BL602 bulbs by removing the module, wiring the rear pads, testing the AP first, and soldering it back safely. [#21475737]

Why it matters: These bulbs let you replace cloud control with local firmware without fully dismantling the lamp body.

Bulb / variant Module seen in thread Access for flashing Main difficulty
EW-A60-15W BW2L / BL602 Good after dome removal Rear pads require desoldering
EW-E14 BW2L / BL602 Similar to EW-A60 Same rear-pad limitation
EW-GU10-E BW2L / BL602 Best access in thread Still needs module removal
Zigbee eWeLink bulb BZ2L / BL702 Different path Usually no need to reflash

Key insight: The critical constraint is not opening the bulb; it is that BW2L flashing pads sit on the module’s back side. If you can remove and reinstall that module cleanly, the rest of the workflow is straightforward.

Quick Facts

  • The main thread covers EW-A60-15W, EW-E14, and later EW-GU10-E eWeLink bulbs, all reported with BW2L modules built around BL602. [#21486426]
  • The author says these bulbs can be bought for about $4–5 each, which makes them low-cost candidates for OpenBeken and Home Assistant experiments. [#21475737]
  • A later dump from a GU10 unit shows factory firmware FWLED-CK0205PWM-LIGHT-BL602L_v1.1.1, build time 20220610.104115.018, and the device then offers an update to 1.5.0. [#21489845]
  • A second E27 order intended as a different lamp arrived as another 15W E27 variant, EW-A60-15W-E, showing that model suffixes can change even within similar retail listings. [#21479288]
  • The thread also identifies newer non-bulb eWeLink hardware with ESP parts, including an ESP8285 85V–250V / USB5V switch, alongside discussion of newer BL602 and Beken designs. [#21477982]

How do I flash an eWeLink RGBCW bulb with a BW2L module based on BL602 step by step?

You flash it by opening the bulb, removing the BW2L module, programming it on the bench, and testing before reassembly. 1. Pry off the dome and expose the LED board. 2. Desolder the BW2L, solder wires to the rear flashing pads, then read or burn firmware with the BL602 workflow. 3. Confirm the BL602 access point appears, then solder the module back and check for shorts on VDD and GND. The thread demonstrates this on EW-A60-15W and EW-E14 RGBCW bulbs intended for cloud-free use with Home Assistant. [#21475737]

What is the BW2L module, and how is it used inside eWeLink EW-A60-15W, EW-E14, and EW-GU10-E bulbs?

"BW2L is a Wi‑Fi module that hosts a BL602 chip, with rear-side flashing pads used for firmware access." In this thread, it appears on the LED board of eWeLink EW-A60-15W, EW-E14, and later EW-GU10-E bulbs. It handles the smart control side of these RGBCW lamps and exposes only five practical GPIOs for the PWM LED channels discussed in the OpenBeken template. The author reports the same GPIO template worked on all eWeLink BW2L bulbs found so far. [#21486426]

Why do I need to desolder the BW2L module before flashing an eWeLink BL602 bulb?

You need to desolder it because the required flashing pads are on the module’s back side. The thread explicitly shows that the BW2L pinout places the programming contacts underneath, so you cannot reach them while the module remains soldered to the LED board. That is why the author treats desoldering as part of the normal workflow, not as an optional repair step. Once removed, you can wire the pads directly and follow the BL602 flashing procedure. [#21475737]

What's the best way to remove a BW2L module from the LED board: hot air or the added Pb solder method?

Hot air is the recommended method, but the added Pb solder method works if you control heat carefully. The thread lists two options: hot air with flux on the pads, or a “tricky” method that adds leaded solder so all joints stay molten long enough to lift the module. A later reply shows the main failure mode: too much heat or time can shift the BL602 chip itself. Use flux first, remove excess solder if it pools, and stop if the board absorbs heat too slowly. [#21476028]

Why is soldering the BW2L module back onto the bulb's LED plate so difficult, and how can I avoid lifting or shifting the BL602 chip?

It is difficult because the LED plate acts as a heat sink and pulls heat away from the pads. The author says the board dissipates large amounts of heat, and another user reports overheating long enough to blow the BL602 out of place. Use flux, a small amount of Pb solder, and heat each pad longer instead of flooding the area. Wick away excess solder before hot air work, align the module low on the contacts, and inspect VDD and GND for shorts before power-up. [#21476028]

Where are the BW2L flashing pads and pinout for BL602, and which backside pads do I need for flashing?

The BW2L flashing pads are on the back of the module, not on the exposed top side. The thread’s pinout image and follow-up wiring note show that you must use the rear pads assigned for BL602 flashing, which is exactly why the module gets removed first. The author directs readers to the BW2L backside pad map and to the linked BL602 flashing guide for the exact wire roles. In practice, the back-side access is the key physical requirement of this whole procedure. [#21475737]

How can I verify that a flashed BL602 bulb is working before I solder the module back into the eWeLink bulb?

Verify it by checking that the BL602 access point appears before resoldering the module. The author states this as a required checkpoint after flashing and before reinstalling the BW2L on the LED board. That test confirms the module still boots and the new firmware is alive, which helps you avoid reheating the lamp again if something failed. It is the fastest bench test in the thread and should happen before any final soldering. [#21475737]

What OBK GPIO template works for eWeLink BW2L RGBCW bulbs, and how do I map the PWM pins to the correct LED colors?

The working OpenBeken template uses five PWM-capable GPIOs: 2→PWM5, 3→PWM1, 14→PWM2, 20→PWM3, 21→PWM4. The thread says there are not many placement options because BW2L exposes no more than five available GPIOs for an RGBCW lamp. You still must identify which color each PWM channel drives, but the author reports both E14 and E27 bulbs used the same GPIO order. Later, he adds that the same template also worked on every eWeLink BW2L bulb found so far, including GU10. [#21486426]

How do eWeLink bulbs marked C3009 differ from Tuya bulbs with the same marking, and why is the EW model prefix more important?

C3009 is not a reliable identifier, while the EW- model prefix is. The author says C3009 also appears on Tuya bulbs, including units with a different LN882H-based design, so that marking can be ignored for this guide. By contrast, EW-A60-15W, EW-E14, and EW-GU10-E are the useful identifiers because they track the eWeLink family actually shown with BW2L hardware. If you want this flashing method, prioritize the eWeLink EW prefix over the shared C3009 board label. [#21475737]

What is BLDevCube, and how is it used to read, back up, and burn firmware on BL602 or BL702 devices?

"BLDevCube is a Bouffalo Lab flashing utility that reads, backs up, and burns firmware on BL602- and BL702-based devices through their programming pins." In the thread, the author links a dedicated BL602/BL702 guide and tells readers to use it for detailed wiring and flashing steps after soldering temporary wires to the BW2L pads. The intended use here is practical: back up the original flash first, then burn replacement firmware, then test that the module boots before reinstalling it in the bulb. [#21475737]

Why does the board under some eWeLink BW2L bulbs say CB2L, and what does that imply about earlier Beken-based variants?

It implies the hardware platform may have been reused from earlier Beken-oriented designs. The author notes an “interesting thing” that the board is marked CB2L, then comments that it “used to be a Beken chip.” A later reply expands that idea, saying the same bulb template and packaging appear across several variants, including one with a UAM022 Beken module. So the CB2L marking suggests board-family reuse, not a guarantee of the actual module currently fitted. [#21476028]

How does the eWeLink GU10 bulb compare with the EW-A60 and EW-E14 bulbs for flashing difficulty and module access?

The GU10 looks easier to flash than the EW-A60 and EW-E14 because it offers excellent access without full bulb teardown. When the EW-GU10-E arrived on March 19, 2025, the author reported it also used BW2L and looked like a “perfect GU10 bulb for flashing without full disassembly.” That is a stronger access claim than the earlier A60 and E14 write-up, where you still remove the dome and then desolder the module from the LED board. The same GPIO template also worked on the GU10. [#21486388]

What firmware was flashed onto the eWeLink Zigbee bulb with the BZ2L/BL702 module, and how well does it work for Zigbee control afterward?

The thread does not identify a flashed replacement firmware or confirm post-flash Zigbee performance. The only concrete Zigbee statement is that an eWeLink Zigbee bulb arrived with BZ2L and BL702, and a flash backup was posted. When another user later asked what firmware had been flashed and whether Zigbee still worked, the author did not name any flashed image. Instead, he said there is no real need to flash Zigbee versions if the goal is normal Zigbee use. [#21497991]

How should I handle an eWeLink Zigbee bulb with BZ2L and BL702 if I want to use it with Zigbee2MQTT instead of reflashing it?

Do not reflash it first; pair it directly with Zigbee2MQTT. The author answers this case clearly: there is “no real need” to flash Zigbee versions of IoT devices because they can already join Zigbee2MQTT without firmware changes. That makes the Zigbee bulb different from the Wi‑Fi BW2L/BL602 lamps in the same thread, where reflashing is the path to local control. If your goal is standard Zigbee operation, treat reflashing as unnecessary extra risk. [#21515396]

Which newer eWeLink devices still use ESP or ESP32 modules, and how do they compare with newer BL602 or Beken-based designs for custom firmware work?

The thread cites several newer or not-recent eWeLink devices with ESP-family chips, but the recent bulb trend discussed here favors BL602 or Beken variants. Examples mentioned include an eWeLink device with ESP32, a SONOFF/eWeLink basic breaker with ESP8285, and an ESP8285 85V–250V / USB5V switch. The author also says older eWeLink batches from about 5 years ago often used ESP, while newer batches he sees now frequently use non-ESP chips such as BL602, Beken, or even T34 in related brands. For custom firmware work, that means chip family now varies much more by product and manufacturing batch. [#21478103]
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