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LCR-T4 electronics components tester ATMega328 - Test and Review

TechEkspert 109146 607
This content has been translated » The original version can be found here
  • gumisie
    Level 42  
    WS38 wrote:
    Can anyone explain to me in a nutshell what this leaping intensity is all about? What is this phenomenon?
    Physical. A more powerful bulb, consumes more current.
  • kwok
    Level 39  
    I haven't read from the beginning.
    Connect the tester to the battery, test several different components while measuring the current consumption from the battery. If the max intended consumption will be less than 100mA then the power supply is enough.
    I would be afraid that the voltage would be too high. The new battery is a little over 9V. The tester itself works great even at 6V. The question is whether there is a capacitor in the power supply, because if only the transformer and bridge are connected, after connecting the capacitor, the voltage will increase to over 12V.
  • gumisie
    Level 42  
    kwok wrote:
    The question is whether there is a capacitor in the power supply, because if only the transformer and bridge are connected, after connecting the capacitor, the voltage will increase to over 12V.
    WS38 wrote:
    UNITRA ZATRA power supply model ZS 0.15 / 9/3
    220 V; 50 Hz; 5.5 VA
    9 V; 150 mA


    TechEkspert wrote:
    The tester is powered by a 9V battery and consumes 12-15mA during measurement, while in sleep mode according to 20nA description (but in practice the current value should be lower, I could not measure the current value in sleep mode).
  • vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Janusz_kk wrote:
    You forget about the ammeter.
    What are you, my misfortune, you hooked this ammeter from the link that you gave or rather the wrong fuse installed in the original place?
    Already in post # 557 I correctly predicted the PSU overload, which was confirmed by post # 565
    Out of curiosity, I measured the resistance of a 160mA tubular fuse, it is 3.2?
    kwok wrote:
    I haven't read from the beginning.
    kwok wrote:
    The question is whether there is a capacitor in the power supply ...
    If you read, you wouldn't ask ;)
  • gumisie
    Level 42  
    vodiczka wrote:
    If you read, you wouldn't ask ;)
    If everyone read, they would understand for what purpose TechEkspert wrote this article.
  • vodiczka
    Level 43  
    gumisie wrote:
    Physical. A more powerful bulb, consumes more current.
    Current jumps when connecting a mini drill and not a light bulb.
    WS38 wrote:
    When the drill was working, the measurements were as follows:
    Direct voltage also 9 V.
    Leakage current from 96 mA to 101 mA.
    The difference in the intensity of about 4%, probably results from the work of the commutator.
  • gumisie
    Level 42  
    vodiczka wrote:
    gumisie wrote:
    Physical. A more powerful bulb, consumes more current.
    Current jumps when connecting a mini drill and not a light bulb.
    WS38 wrote:
    When the drill was working, the measurements were as follows:
    Direct voltage also 9 V.
    Leakage current from 96 mA to 101 mA.
    The difference in the intensity of about 4%, probably results from the work of the commutator.
    Let go (we), further agonizing.
    It is important that this power supply is suitable for this tester.

    Regards.
  • kwok
    Level 39  
    Okay, the photo is already known that some voltage stabilization is = can be used.
  • E8600
    Level 39  
    Data from the first post.
    TechEkspert wrote:
    The tester is powered by a 9V battery and consumes 12-15mA during measurement, while in sleep mode according to 20nA description

    Connecting this tester to the power supply is unfounded even though I am the enemy of a 9 V battery myself.
    The power supply receives equipment mobility.

    This tester works properly on a deeply discharged battery I know because I changed the battery recently after over a year of use with a voltage of 6.5 V (and was branded but used with a voltage of 8 V).
    Now I put in a new battery but the cheapest 2 PLN. :D

    Make a contact lamp from the repaired power supply if you really want to use it. :D
  • 398216 UsuniÍty
    Level 43  
    E8600 wrote:
    Connecting this tester to the power supply is unfounded
    On the contrary. It is reasonable when the tester is used stationary. Why? Because you don't have to worry about the battery falling at the least appropriate moment.
    And nothing stands in the way of connecting the tester's power plug to disconnect the internal battery - you have mobility and no trouble.
  • gumisie
    Level 42  
    E8600 wrote:
    Connecting this tester to the power supply is unfounded even though I am the enemy of a 9 V battery myself.
    The power supply receives equipment mobility.
    398216 UsuniÍty wrote:
    And nothing stands in the way of connecting the tester's power plug to disconnect the internal battery - you have mobility and no trouble.
    I confirm I have done so.
  • vodiczka
    Level 43  
    E8600 wrote:
    Connecting this tester to the power supply is unfounded even though I am the enemy of a 9 V battery myself.
    The power supply receives equipment mobility.
    What is right, but does the tester have to be mobile? Use issue. For example, I use a laptop practically stationary.
    I bought it instead of a computer so that I would not be afraid that they would turn off my power supply and possibly buy additional UPS.
  • 398216 UsuniÍty
    Level 43  
    gumisie wrote:
    I have done so.
    I had my own until I realized that I don't need to use the tester in the field. So I broke the battery (which would not spill or swell) and for several years "flies" on the power supply. Anyway, the same as in # 573 post ... :)
  • miroslaw wielki
    Conditionally unlocked
    The one with the colorful display is great. But the display crushed in one. I wonder if they are available separately.
  • WS38
    Level 13  
    Buddy GUMISIE yes this type of power supply from the photo.
    And this solution with a double type of power supply - when connecting the tester's power plug disconnects the internal battery, I also like it.
    What element is best to use here DC socket and plug or a simple slide switch?
  • 398216 UsuniÍty
    Level 43  
    There are sockets with a contact opened through the pin of the power supply plug. The most convenient way.
  • KStanek
    Level 22  
    The current (intensity) surely jumps because the motor winding also behaves, the drill puts various resistance on the motor and the bearing is used, which is another part and it jumps.
  • User removed account
    Level 1  
  • tygrysss
    Level 21  
    Welcome to the new year, today I received my tester but unfortunately damaged :( After connecting the battery, literally testing appears on 0.1s, and then a black screen ... did anyone meet with similar behavior?
    Regards
  • DJCheester
    Level 16  
    Hello

    You should try to upload soft, it is possible that it will start.

    I have a question, I need a software for this tester without any frills (electronic modifications), preferably the original, only that I have a T4 in Polish

    Best regards ...
  • PiotrPitucha
    Level 33  
    Hello
    My tester also had problems with operation, there were a few cold solders, I corrected with a good flux and replaced the quartz, because after touching it with a finger from the bottom, the system was surprising. The probability that something has happened to the program is extremely small.
    Tygrysss soldering iron in hand and it will work :)
  • LoLs
    Level 10  
    Hello, I have a question if there is a chance to resuscitate it, the capacitor was supposed to be discharged, it was tested twice and at 3 the tester did not turn on, the battery is charging normally.

    LCR-T4 electronics components tester ATMega328 - Test and Review
  • PiotrPitucha
    Level 33  
    Hello
    Everything can be revived. First you need to identify the device version, what processor, what display etc. You are looking for a batch for the processor and then it's a soldering iron. Before desoldering the processor, check if it can be read with the programmer, maybe someone forgot about the Lock bits and you would have the original program. It is also worth finding a diagram and thinking about what can damage a charged capacitor, because maybe the processor itself survived.
  • Trabi
    Level 36  
    Gentlemen, I think I fell T4 today :( . For example, I put a resistor, turn on the tester and "Testing ....", no results. I connected the oscilloscope to pins 1,2,3 (5s / div) and the first pulses from pressing the button are sent after 20 seconds (!) And then after another 30 seconds it turns off. After switching on, the 3rd pin is 1V and after sending the pulses it is still high until it switches itself off. The screenshots will show it better:
    LCR-T4 electronics components tester ATMega328 - Test and ReviewT4-prob...jpg Download (154.59 kB)

    Of course, it was possible to detect NPN once, but it took several dozen seconds, resistors were not detected. What's happening? He died? Can you revive it or look for another one on Ali?
  • DJCheester
    Level 16  
    Hey, it can be saved - Atmega328 is there so probably soft or scalak fell. You can download the batch to T4 and use the programmer to upload and see if something changes, if not, replace the processor with a new one and upload the soft - it should start.

    More on how to upload a software and a Polish version in this link.

    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3372311.html

    Greetings ...
  • Trabi
    Level 36  
    Thanks @DJCheester, I'll try to do something about it if I can ;)

    - EDIT 01/21/2021 -

    I do not have any programmer, but I read that the Arduino-Uno (and I have one for several days) can be made a programmer. So I dug a lot of articles from uploading software to UNO, through UNO connections to RLC-T4, installing programs and ... d-pale. I spent several hours on it with no effect. All in all, I put it back in the drawer and either buy a new one and this one is put into the trash, or someone will program it for me. I give up; I think it's overwhelmed me :( .
  • DJCheester
    Level 16  
    Do not throw it away, you can not do everything right away - my friend I remember you used to help me because the nickname is familiar, so I will tell you.

    You can and the easiest way to buy a USB ASP programmer on Allegro or Ali or in any electronics store by typing USB ASP. When buying, you will get a KANDA 10pin cable + programmer as below

    https://www.ledats.pl/4764-thickbox_default/usb-asp-programator-tasma-idc.jpg

    For this you can buy a 6pin adapter because the tester has a 6pin connector

    https://abc-rc.pl/data/gfx/pictures/large/7/0/6207_1.jpg?33485

    But you can also use the cables for the contact plate and choose the ones you need to program the tester yourself, here are the pins you can't go wrong

    https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RIw6-jo6I88/T-L4mk...I/AAAAAAAAAsk/HfLAdnZt8JI/s1600/ISP_KANDA.jpg

    in the tester, the pins go like this

    https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/1219969400_1503516373.jpg

    Just connect with each other and now you can use the MKAVR Calculator (paid version - from what I remember ATMEGA8 is in demo version and Atmega328 is in version after buying a license) but you can use AVRDudess which is free (correct me if I am wrong)

    And now, after connecting, you can use the detekt option to make the program try to detect the prock, if it happens, you need to set the fuse bits and specify the files

    Here are the files

    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/viewtopic.php?p=16675880#16675880

    The version of the tester with a blue button also says so in the post

    You can also write yes on the command line (console)

    avrdude -c USBasp -P usb -p m328p -U flash: w: TransistorTester.hex \ -U eeprom: w: TransistorTester.eep \ -U lfuse: w: 0xf7: m \ -U hfuse: w: 0xd9: m \ -U efuse: w: 0xfc: m

    Where you need to go to the directory where the AVRDude program is under dosem and run it with the above-mentioned command and have hex and eep files named as in the above line and set fuse bits like this

    L - F7
    H - D9
    E - FC

    Information found on the network, so you have to figure it out - the most important thing for the programmer to work - under the computer - drivers must be installed.

    As for the programmer with Arduino, I know that it is possible, but I have never played it - I made a programmer and also bought a second one, just like the photo I gave.

    Don't give up, take action.

    If a colleague lived nearby, he could personally give me a tester, we would upload the software or replace the prock and upload the software.

    Oh, when programming, the tester should be powered.

    Greetings ...
  • Trabi
    Level 36  
    No, I exaggerated with this "kick" ;) , I don't really throw anything away; even if it doesn't work :D .
    Thanks for the exact hints. I will act on this topic.
  • Trabi
    Level 36  
    Unfortunately, most likely the slinger failed. I bought a programmer, cables, uploaded the original soft and the same - nothing measures, the test does not pass. I bought a new 328P and will try to replace it on Friday.

    Oh, the soft from "Electrode" can be uploaded, but the screen is blank and nothing is displayed. Only works with the original (blue button version).