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Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.

p.kaczmarek2 12138 160
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  • p.kaczmarek2
    Level 27  
    Very good spotting, @bxwen19 ! Still, I wouldn't worry about that. There are some 3.3V LDO regulators that have different pinout than AMS1117.

    If you're unsure about the 3.3V and 5V roles and think that information on the silkscreen is incorrect, then disconnect the programmer from the device and power it from mains and then carefully check if "5V" is really a 5V pin and "3.3V" is really 3.3V pin. Just to be sure.

    Then, disconnect mains (always disconnect mains before doing any programming, never connect mains while doing programming) and use 5V pin as stated before - it's an input of the LDO (AMS1117 or any other LDO).
  • bxwen19
    Level 3  
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant. Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant. Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant. Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.

    I'll do the main experiment once I have time. I took everything apart and took more pictures.

    Added after 23 [minutes]:

    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.

    Found the footprint of the LDO. pin2 is input. pin3 is output. I'll use a 5V supply.
  • p.kaczmarek2
    Level 27  
    Thanks for photos. This is very informative.
    bxwen19 wrote:
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant. Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.

    Would you be able to tell which BL602 pins are routed to the pads of the "S40 WiFi module", for the future reference?

    Also looking at 6211A datasheet... I can see how it can be confusing.
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.
  • Maniac2002
    Level 2  
    Maniac2002 wrote:
    Hello,
    so here comes the information.
    It is a Switch-WF.
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant. Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant. Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant. Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.

    It has a Bl602L20.

    Please can you give me a step by step manual

    I have a USB to UART Dongle and i have already soldered teh cables to the PCB (RX,TX, GND and 3.3V)
    Ma Questionss are:

    Which flashing Tool do i nedd?
    Which firmwarefiles do i need.
    What do i need to do to flasch the "tasmota replacement firmware" to the device?

    Thanks in advance and best regards
    Maniac2002


    Hello,

    I was wrong. Ich boot pin is not the switch on the device. Can you provide me some Informationen hiw to find the Boot pin for a bl602e20 Chip.

    Tanks in advanve and best regard
    Maniac2002
  • p.kaczmarek2
    Level 27  
    Hello @Maniac2002 . I will try to help you here. You need to find BOOT pin, which is, unless I'm much mistaken, the GPIO8.
    Please refer to this schematic: (this is another board)
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.
    I have composed an image for you. The dot marks the first pin. See where GPIO8 is:
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.
    Now, my question is, where does the via goes with GPIO8? Can you look at the other side of the board? Where is this PCB track connected? I can't clearly see it on your photos...

    Maybe you can check with multimeter where does GPIO8 goes?
  • Wolle62
    Level 2  
    Hello everyone,
    iv got the same Magic Home Controller as in Thread1 described.
    And use an USB UART Adapter with 3,3V Logiclevel with a PL2303 Chip until 115200 bd.
    This: https://www.conrad.com/p/usb-rb-ttl-cable-for-raspberry-pi-409202 Is it the wrong one?
    But i cant program the Bl602. The Flashtool always says, that there is no communication with the serial Port. "Listening Failure..."
    I clickt on "Refresh", the right Serial Port (11) will displayed, but no connection. I measured the 3,3V, it stays stable, Boot Pin ist with 1K Resistor to 3,3V connected.
    On the PCB the Boot Pin has a pulldown Resistor of 10K. Thats why I took a 1k Pullup.
    Any suggestions? Any Changes of the Programming Procedure or Software?
    I tryd the Flasher downloaded from this Thread.
    On "Firmware Bin" I set the .bin File from the Github Repo? Is it right so?
    Thank You!
  • bxwen19
    Level 3  
    Where to get the flash tool? the dldevcube.exe I got is 1.8.0. It doesn't look like the 1.4.8 in the first post. I don't know what to do
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.
    Added after 22 [minutes]:


    Would you be able to tell which BL602 pins are routed to the pads of the "S40 WiFi module", for the future reference?
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.


    Figured most of them out, but this middle one I don't know where it is connected.
  • p.kaczmarek2
    Level 27  
    Wolle62 wrote:

    And use an USB UART Adapter with 3,3V Logiclevel with a PL2303 Chip until 115200 bd.
    This: https://www.conrad.com/p/usb-rb-ttl-cable-for-raspberry-pi-409202 Is it the wrong one?

    I haven't tried this flash tool yet. I am using CH340G.
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.
    Wolle62 wrote:

    On "Firmware Bin" I set the .bin File from the Github Repo? Is it right so?
    Thank You!

    The configuration shown on screenshots in first post is correct.

    bxwen19 wrote:
    Where to get the flash tool? the dldevcube.exe I got is 1.8.0. It doesn't look like the 1.4.8 in the first post.

    I think it was attached somewhere in this thread, but you can also get it in my SDK fork:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBL602
    open tools->flash tool

    Have you tried probing the middle pin with multimeter?
  • bxwen19
    Level 3  
    OK, manage to flash using Rx0 and Tx0 instead.

    Cell phone can see a wifi access point openbl602_...., if click, it says sign into network,showed tasmota interface, but then disconnect
    Teraterm shown random symbols. There is no baud rate 2000000 to choose


    Finally, wifi is connected. Is it time to remove the wires and solder everything back? Is the OTA working? How to toggle the relay and how to read the power?

    The middle pin doesn't seem to go anywhere.
  • Wolle62
    Level 2  
    i will try it like in the Screenshot
    But i cant find the Firmware bin File like in the second Picture in Thread1.
    "W:\Test\customer_app\bl602_sharedApp\build_out\bl602_sharedApp.bin"

    In my downloaded Folder there ist no Folder "build_out" and no File "bl602_sharedApp.bin in "Costumer_app\bl602_sharedApp"?
    Tasmota replacement for BL602, programming, pairing with Home Assistant.

    The Link https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/tree/main/bl602_release
    there ist Error404

    EDIT: Found it here:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/releases
    Thank You, now i Will try again flashing
    It workt now.
    The Problem was, the actual Driver from Profilic for the PL2303 Adapter does not work. I must use an older Driver from Windows 7.
    Than the Flashing works without Problems.
    Now i configure my "new" Controller to controll a RGB Stripe.

    Done, works great!
    Is there a Way to connect the Device via MQTT2 to FHEM?
  • Wolle62
    Level 2  
    After one Day of succesfull work, i disconnected the working Controller from Power.
    Until now, the Controller works fine.
    After disconnecting from Power an reconnecting, the Controller was not reachable.
    I flashed it again, no Accespoint, I flashed the 1.12.59 but nothing happens again. Than flashed 1.12.61 again, nothing...
    What could I do, to bring the Controller back to live?
    What am i doing wrong? Its still flashable. but no Accesspoint after flashing.

    EDIT: I disconnected the Device 6 Times like Tasmota Devices and he is online again.
    Now i go on with MQTT Configuration.