1. With flop and ps/2 transistors first. Scales before the small piece. I usually apply the paste and solder in the "oven". Without hot-air, you may have a problem with the generator. 2. It's best to program the flash before soldering, possibly without FPGA. You can program JTAG via FPGA, but it is quite annoying. 3. The ones at the flopp joint? You can skip.
For now, I'm still waiting for parts, I'll probably start soldering sometime this weekend.
1. The oven is out, I would probably have to invent an additional one to fire in the garage, because once used, I probably won't make any more food. I noticed that the quartz has such medium-accessible bases, but I will try to drive the flux from the bottom and gently solder each corner, we'll see how it goes. I can always invest in hot air with ali; which is what I have planned but it was supposed to be a little later.
2. ok, then I'll try to program it before soldering, we'll see how the programmer grabs it.
Hello @sillycon, My approach was to fully equip the back first and then the top. And mostly in the order from the small component to the large one.
Before I soldered the FPGA and RAM, I could already measure whether the The power supply is correct and whether there is a short circuit somewhere.
That was good insofar as I had ordered the wrong oscillator. The wrong oscillator had created a short circuit. Everything is fine now with the ABRACON ASE-18.432MHZ-LC-T LVCMOS.
I also flashed the flash before FPGA/RAM onboard. Finally all the connections.
I decided to start with the smallest parts so I went with PUSB3FR4Z. I got tired of what is beyond measure and the effect is devastating - the board has been disfigured and the chip is not exactly where it was supposed to be. Interestingly, the multimeter test shows the diodes where they should be, so at least it worked. without a heat gun, I will rather not try and I will use soldering irons to fix the connections. it's good that the parts and plates are not too expensive, but if I had known beforehand how things would go, I would at least buy a stencil for paste. Well, I'll wait for my order and see you in the next installment.
If someone ordered Spartan6 XC6SLX9 from Mouser or Farnell, I would gladly buy one. Maybe it would be worth getting together for a joint order by someone who has already paved the way.
With regular shipping (global direct something?) I've never had to pay extra, with courier they wanted something. No company needed. If you have an account with JLCPCB, you can use their login/password.
I spent a few hours yesterday on the next stage of the project. After these unfortunate ESD protections, the rest is a fairy tale, as is hot-air of course. Next time these very small components will look better, like quartz, I will not approach them with a soldering iron, I will use hot-air right away. The way it is now should work, and a black mask will be applied to the disfigured plate and it will be beautiful.
Soldered on the Sn64Bi35Ag1 no3 band at 350 ° C, because it was cheap and there is no lead. I will still improve the upper side with a soldering iron and WSW SACL0, because the solders are dull, and you need to cover all the copper where it is missing. I've already run a soldering iron through the bottom of the board and some solders are better. I wonder if my temperature is too high, because it wasn't overheated at the time. The pictures are after the first cleaning with isopropanol, so the cotton wool is still attached.
I left the elements around the FPGA and RAM for the end. But maybe I'll solder them with a soldering iron to see if February comes out prettier. I just saw in the pictures that I have 2 resistors badly soldered, if someone has a trained eye, he will quickly find it. I'll fix it next time.
Please give me a short answer: 1. I mixed up some parts, so I have to order on Ali, because the shipment is cheaper, and LCSC also do not have everything in stock for now: - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005545107429.html - I ordered TSSOP-8, and it is supposed to be VSSOP-8. There is a DCU-8 in the BOM, so it was hard to choose. - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005066002242.html - I ordered SOP-20, and it is supposed to be TSSOP-20. 2. Is the PTVS5V0P1UP diode needed on the board, because in the photos of the project I see that it was not soldered? 3. I would like a link to the 4-pin header for powering the flopp, because I have already bought 3 different ones and if they fit in the board, after connecting the power cable the plastic in the header seems to be too bent. If nothing can be bought, I noticed that the 4-pin fan header from the old board will be ok and does not bend.
In any case, as we write here, is there any chance of an A1200 in FPGA for followers? I haven't finished gluing together the DIY-A586 yet, but I'm already looking with interest towards the Sidewinder FPGA. It was supposed to be an A1200 but I can't find a socket for the power supply, I have pretty much everything else except the keyboard.
The board has potential and it would be nice if there were sources for Mikan, but I understand Peter, his design, his rules. I have 1 copy for now, which is waiting for some ICs, and I will have parts for sure for 3 copies. Once I've played with it, my plan was to distribute it within the family, and maybe further afield, to increase visibility. When I have stuff like this lying around the house, it just gathers dust. And maybe someday Peter will want to make more available, or maybe not.
Great design. I became interested in it only because it has the ability to connect a real floppy drive, when other FPGA emulations mist, minimig, mister - which I have, do not have this option. The board is already soldered and I'm testing it now. For now, I'm surprised that I only have 2 MB CHIP RAM available. Checked in Workbench and logica diagnostic rom. Also, I cannot run more than 4 cores (DEMO LIMIT, 4 CORES MAX). Do I need to make a purchase? Will the cores that were available in v1.6 also be available in v1.9? (spectrum, minimig)
Thanks a lot, ordered.
