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[BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant

p.kaczmarek2 177312 1242
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  • #541 20003014
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    @kuba2k2 I think there is mbedtls for that

    @leecher1337 well, can you post photo from inside? Usually you just see where each track of PCB goes and that's it. You can also try using TYWE3S pinouts, because TYWE3S has footprint compatible with WB3S:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    TYWE3S (ESP12F):
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    WB3S pin definitions:
    Pin No.SymbolI/O typeFunction
    1CENILow-level reset, high-level active (internally pulled high) Docking IC-CEN
    2ADC3AIADC pin, which is connected to the P23 pin on the internal IC
    3ENInputEnabling pin, which is internally pulled up and compatible with other module design
    4P14I/OCommon GPIO, which is connected to the P14 pin on the internal IC
    5PWM5I/OGPIOP_26, which is connected to the P26 pin on the internal IC
    6PWM4I/OGPIOP_24, common GPIO, which is connected to the P24 pin on the internal IC
    7PWM0I/OGPIOP_6, which is connected to the P6 pin on the internal IC
    8VCCPPower supply pin (3.3 V)
    9GNDPPower supply reference ground pin
    10PWM1I/OGPIOP_7, which is connected to the P7 pin on the internal IC
    11TXD2I/OUART2_TXD, which is used to display the internal information of the module and connected to the P0 on the internal IC. Unavailable to customers.
    12RXD2I/OUART2_RXD, which is used to display the internal information of the module and connected to the P1 on the internal IC. Unavailable to customers.
    13PWM3I/OGPIOP_9, common GPIO, which is connected to the P9 pin on the internal IC
    14PWM2I/OGPIOP_8, which is connected to the P8 pin on the internal IC
    15RXD1I/OUART1_RXD, which is used as a user-side serial interface pin and is connected to the P10 pin on the internal IC
    16TXD1I/OUART1_TXD, which is used as a user-side serial interface pin and is connected to the P11 pin on the internal IC

    In the configurator, the indices are the referring to "P26", "P10", etc, nomenclature
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  • #542 20003136
    leecher1337
    Level 6  
    Here is an image of the top view of the switch. I don't know if I can unscrew the PCB from the bottom of the switch without destroying it, so I'd first like to ask if the photo of the topside of the PCB may be enough to get the necessary information (maybe it's the same profile as a switch you possibly already integrated):

    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant

    So I have connections to P8 presumably for the switches, P26 (LEDs..?), and EN (possibly irrelevant, as internal pull-up)?
  • #543 20003149
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Was there ESP12F (TYWE3S) before? If so, then it's easy, just map the pins.

    still, here is a hint for you:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant

    Also... quick question - do you know that you can just try out each configuration? You won't break anything, I think.

    Just set P26 or something to Relay (or LED, as you wish), set it for channel 0, and toggle it from the www panel. Does the LED blinks or relay clicks? If so, that's the pin you're looking for.
    You can set multiple pins and test them at once. For example, set P1 to channel 0 LED, P2 to channel 1 LED, P3 to channel 2 LED, etc and on main site you get multiple buttons - each for each channel. Note down which one works (which pin).
    You can do the same with button. Have already a working LED or relay with channel 0. Set cetain pin to be a button with channel 0. Does clicking the button irl toggles the LED? IF so, that's the button pin.

    NOTE: Relays will not be working if you power module from your 3.3V supply. This is because relays require 5V rail or 12V (depending on device). Do all testing with module DISCONNECTED from your UART converter and your power supply, and with already connected to mains. NEVER connect module to both mains and your wires - it's very dangerous.
    NOTE2: There is a chance that you disable debug log UART output on the module pins if you set the role of UART TX to anything (this overrides logging and you can use debug log UART TX pin as relay control etc)
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  • #544 20003276
    leecher1337
    Level 6  
    Hi,

    Thanks for you help, I now got the following mapping:

    6 - Rel - 1
    8 - Btn - 2
    9 - Rel - 2
    10 - Btn - 1
    11 - LED - 2
    26 - LED - 1

    Now how to find WiFi Led?
  • #545 20003292
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    The same method as before, but the real question is... is there a WiFi LED in this product?

    Is there any LED on the board that you are not yet able to control? Maybe use multimeter to find out where is it connected (try probing also not on the led itself, but on the LED resistor, you might find that one by following PCB tracks).

    Not all products seems to have WiFi LED.

    PS: XR809/XR3 flashing with OpenBeken port guide released - so far in Polish:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3890640.html
    Translation pending.
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  • #546 20003365
    leecher1337
    Level 6  
    The left LED can flash orange or blue, there is LED4 and LED6 on the PCB.. I didn't manage to find it yet, tried different configurations, will try to find corresponding resistor. But no idea if I can do anything useful with the orange LED besides maybe showing WIFI connection status anyway...
  • #547 20003371
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    WiFi LED is very useful because it will blink fast if you have no WiFi connection in client mode and this will allow to tell you what's going on with the device that is not responding.
    Device not responding to network + fast WiFi LED blink = no wifi connection
    Device not responding to network + no WiFi LED blink = idk, device crashed?
    Still, it's just in case, because right now I am using OpenBeken devices in my room and I find them stable.
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  • #548 20004062
    leecher1337
    Level 6  
    I didn't manage to find it, unfortunately. Neither by searching for the corresponding resistor, nor by trying out all available pins that were left.
    Judging from the Tasmota Templates by converting the GPIO definitions, the WiFi Status LED must be RXD2.
    Documentation above states:
    "UART2_RXD, which is used to display the internal information of the module and connected to the P1 on the internal IC. Unavailable to customers."
    So it must be P1, but from what I can see, it's inverted, I haven't tried it inverted.
    Well, it's not that important anyway, at least the normal mapping works as intended.
    Should I create a pull request with device configuration or is it enough that you have the mapping in this thread so that you can add it, if you want?
  • #549 20004219
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Please create a pull request.

    So why not set P1 role to simple RELAY, assign channel, idk, 5, and try switching it from web panel to see if it blinks? Or Relay_N, if you want inverting.
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  • #550 20004362
    leecher1337
    Level 6  
    Thanks, confirmed, here are the full mappings then:

    DS-102 1 Gang Switch
    PINGPIO TYWE3SGPIO WB3SFunctionChannel
    223
    41614
    51426LED1
    61224
    7136Rel1
    10157
    1120
    1201Wifi LED
    1349
    1458
    15310Btn1
    16111


    DS-102 2 Gang Switch
    PINGPIO TYWE3SGPIO WB3SFunctionChannel
    223
    41614
    51426LED1
    61224
    7136Rel1
    10157
    1120
    1201Wifi LED
    1349Rel2
    1458Btn2
    15310Btn1
    16111LED2


    DS-102 3 Gang Switch
    PINGPIO TYWE3SGPIO WB3SFunctionChannel
    223
    41614LED1
    51426LED2
    61224Btn1
    7136Rel1
    10157Rel3
    1120
    1201Wifi LED
    1349Rel2
    1458Btn3
    15310Btn2
    16111LED3
  • #551 20004421
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Please create pull request and I will integrate it into the "Quick config".

    Also please note, that soon I will add a template system that will work like in Tasmota, so it will be possible to create a short text templates for each device that can be pasted into the config page.

    Btw, XR809/XR3 water sensor guide has been released [ENGLISH VERSION]:
    https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3890640.html
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  • #552 20007319
    Dark Man
    Level 13  
    Dark Man wrote:
    The bulb is:
    The intelligent LSC Smart Connect LED bulb
    10 watts | 806 lumens
    Art. number 970715.1 v1.1

    WB2L chip
    https://www.action.com/pl-pl/p/inteligentna-arowka-led-lsc-smart-connect/
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant

    I soldered the module back to the bulb and found its configuration:
    P7 - PWM - 2
    P8 - PWM - 1


    It works very nicely, only the minimum PWM setting is missing (or I haven't found it), because for about 15% of the channel brightness, the LEDs do not shine at all.
    It may not be a big problem, but still :)
    At that time, it would also be worth including QuickConfig in the configuration and ultimately in Template in the form of Tasmot.

    By the way, I also tested OTA - it only worked from the App OTA level, and not from the default config.

    The next step is to test the cloudcutter script.
  • #553 20007342
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    I didn't even think about the minimum PWM value, the bar is from 0 to 100% but I can consider adding something like this.

    But rather in Home Assistant it can be done in Yaml, so is it really necessary? Do you control the lamp from the OpenBeken panel or by MQTT?

    I can add a template, unless you want to do it, you via a pull request - then you will officially contribute to the repo.

    What does "from default config no" mean? Although, I think I know. There is a 64 character limit per link and the link from github has more characters. I took it recently, these 64 are definitely not enough, someone from the code contributors saved bytes too much there.
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  • #554 20007924
    sharathbk1912
    Level 8  
    Hi looks like now there is support for bl0942 . Will the bl0937 also be supported sooner ?

    Also request to add power on restore configuration ? if its already there can anyone help with the setting ?

    Thanks and Regards
    Sharath B K
  • #555 20008221
    Dark Man
    Level 13  
    I have a few more problems.

    I have two PWM channels configured as cold white and warm white.
    The slider of their brightness works strangely - no matter if from the default menu or App menu or from Home Assistant through MQTT.
    For COLD WHITE at my P8:
    - The LEDs only light up from setting 6 on the slider
    - at the level of 99 the LEDs shine 50% of their brightness, but just move the slider to 100 and they already shine at 100%

    For WARM WHITE at my P7:
    - The LEDs only light up from setting 21 on the slider
    - at the level of 99 the LEDs shine 50% of their brightness, but just move the slider to 100 and they already shine at 100%
    - at the initial brightness, i.e. from 0% to about 30%, the LEDs blink, maybe not significantly, but I can see it (I am sensitive to a low refresh rate). in ESP32 you can set the PWM frequency and in Beken?

    Another thing is the default generated configuration for Home Assistant provides for the "Optimistic: true" mode, which causes no actual actual state to be visible. I tried to change it to False, but then the lack of the ability to turn on / off (switching does not change the state), although the slider seems to work as in the native OpenBK menu as described above.

    Another thing :)
    In YAML in HA I tried to build one light entity that supports cold white and warm white, i.e. an entity with two sliders (brightness and temperature), but it does not work out at all and I do not know how to do it.

    As for adding a template as a pull request, I will try to add it myself, come on it for the first time (it must always be the first time :-) )
  • #556 20008325
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Dark Man wrote:

    For COLD WHITE at my P8:
    - The LEDs only light up from setting 6 on the slider
    - at the level of 99 the LEDs shine 50% of their brightness, but just move the slider to 100 and they already shine at 100%

    For WARM WHITE at my P7:
    - The LEDs only light up from setting 21 on the slider
    - at the level of 99 the LEDs shine 50% of their brightness, but just move the slider to 100 and they already shine at 100%
    - at the initial brightness, i.e. from 0% to about 30%, the LEDs blink, maybe not significantly

    I have not seen anything like that. In my case, both the bulbs and the LED strip are already shining at a few% and the dimming value goes smoothly.
    I bought a bulb from Action for PLN 18, in a few days I will test it and maybe I'll see what you mean ...

    Dark Man wrote:

    in ESP32 you can set the PWM frequency and in Beken?

    It's stiff in my 1kHz code (if I remember correctly), in hal_pins_bk7231.c







    Dark Man wrote:

    Another thing is the default generated configuration for Home Assistant provides for the "Optimistic: true" mode, which causes no actual actual state to be visible.

    It may actually be a bug. How do you turn it on, do you mean via MQTT / get / / set / or via led driver with enable?


    Dark Man wrote:

    In YAML in HA I tried to build one light entity that supports cold white and warm white, i.e. an entity with two sliders (brightness and temperature), but it does not work out at all and I do not know how to do it.

    I haven't had the CW bulb itself, but in my opinion it will work if you set channel 3 for C and channel 4 for W (R, G, B will be skipped by default)
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3880540.html
    Yaml from the topic, but you will remove the commands on RGB ....
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  • #557 20008412
    pepesuriano
    Level 9  
    Hi, I have been unable to contact @btsimonh since it seems that last connection was a while ago.

    Does somebody have any guidance on how can I flash a WB2S with SPI? UART has been impossible to me and I cannot find info on how to flash with SPI.

    Thanks
  • #558 20008969
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    sharathbk1912 wrote:
    Hi looks like now there is support for bl0942 . Will the bl0937 also be supported sooner ?

    those two chips have different communication modes, bl0942 is uart and bl0937 is custom protocol which requires interrupts, but i will try to do 937 soon, it has example in tuya sdk

    sharathbk1912 wrote:

    Also request to add power on restore configuration ? if its already there can anyone help with the setting ?

    Do you need it? I can add this for you really soon.

    pepesuriano wrote:
    UART has been impossible to me and I cannot find info on how to flash with SPI.

    did you read @DarkMan1 post? he had issues with CP2102 UART to USB converter but CH340 worked for him, maybe you need second usb to uart converter as well?

    I have flashed a lot of bk devices and all of them worked so far.

    Anyway, next device for testing arrived - donation from Jennifer (@echojjj) - thank you, I will make sure it's supported and working well. I will also release a teardown article and programming guide for it soon. And it's already flashed! Support will be also added to tuya-cloudcutter as well, so you can flash this device without connecting wires (by hacking Tuya OTA)!
    Spoiler:

    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant

    Do you also want to send me a device for testing as well? I try to add as much features as possible, but it's hard to buy all devices by myself, so considering supporting a project by sending me a device (send me a PM here) or doing a donation: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/openshwprojects Thanks! Every 1$ counts.
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  • #559 20009346
    marioalmeida
    Level 10  
    I have SM-PW801-K1 with BK7231T, how can I get bl0937 working?

    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
  • #560 20009351
    echojjj
    Level 8  
    I'll be flashing this ceiling fan controller over the weekend. It has the CB2S module (BK7231N).

    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
  • #561 20009398
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    marioalmeida wrote:
    I have SM-PW801-K1 with BK7231T, how can I get bl0937 working?

    BL0937 is not implemented yet, only BL0942.


    echojjj wrote:
    I'll be flashing this ceiling fan controller over the weekend. It has the CB2S module (BK7231N).

    Can you please provide more information about that board? I see there is a ULN2003 on the board, most likely for driving relays, and AMS1117 3.3V as well, but what is the second daughter board in the background? Is this RF433? That's something new, I wonder how it works.
    Are relays connected directly to CB2S pins or by TuyaMCU?
    If relays are directly connected to CB2S UART lines (TX and RX), please be aware that flashing might fail. In that case, you can either temporary cut tracks (or desolder blocking parts from RX TX lines) or wait for OTA support for this chip.
    EDIT:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    it seems so, the RX TX tracks are used, so in this case the flashing might be slightly harder than usual. What is on the second board?

    Initial OTA is done by tuya-cloudcutter, but tuya-cloudcutter can only support devices that have been cracked first, and in order to crack device someone must read BK7231 memory by wires and send it to tuya-cloudcutter guys here:
    https://github.com/tuya-cloudcutter/tuya-cloudcutter/issues


    EDIT2: Some progress on my side:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant

    And yet another device, unlucky bulb with a strange WB2L_M1 module which is like WB2L but on BK7231N (not T!), where you have to desolder module to reach RX/TX pads:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    And soldered back:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    No problem, tuya-cloudcutter guys will get firmware from me and prepare OTA hack for this device so you dont have to solder wires to flash. [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
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  • #562 20009473
    echojjj
    Level 8  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Can you please provide more information about that board? I see there is a ULN2003 on the board, most likely for driving relays, and AMS1117 3.3V as well, but what is the second daughter board in the background? Is this RF433? That's something new, I wonder how it works.


    Yes, it is the RF433 for remote control. It has both features "smart" and "rf".

    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
  • #563 20009495
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Would it be possible to read the markings from both chips on the RF board?

    I suspect it might be TuyaMCU, which would require more advanvced configuration and reverse engineering in order to support it.

    Can you check where those 4 tracks go? They start at RF board and go to... where?
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    (I already suspect where they are going but let's check...)
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  • #564 20009520
    echojjj
    Level 8  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Would it be possible to read the markings from both chips on the RF board?

    I would have to desolder it.

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    I suspect it might be TuyaMCU, which would require more advanvced configuration and reverse engineering in order to support it.

    It is TuyaMCU. I see that on the Tasmota Templates page for this device https://templates.blakadder.com/qiachip_FLC.html has already been done there. Is it same?

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Can you check where those 4 tracks go? They start at RF board and go to... where?
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    (I already suspect where they are going but let's check...)

    Those go to the ULN2003
  • #565 20009577
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    echojjj wrote:
    I see that on the Tasmota Templates page for this device https://templates.blakadder.com/qiachip_FLC.html has already been done there.

    This is good information.
    OpenBeken has already a basic TuyaMCU support.
    I see they have several dpIDs:
    Quote:

    dpid1 - fan on/off
    dpid3 - fan speed (0 = low, 1 = med, 2 = hi)
    dpid6 - self timer (0 = off, 1 = 1hr, 2 = 2hr, 4 = 4hr, 8 = 8hr)
    dpid9 - light on/off
    dpid7 - timer remaining
    dpid17 - ???

    but are those all dpids required? Is there only a single light? Or maybe two lights?

    echojjj wrote:
    Is it same?

    I am not sure, but we can assume that it is.

    So.... you can help testing and supporting this device.

    Here is the basic draft of what has to be done:
    1. Cut the RX and TX tracks (between TuyaMCU and CB2S)
    2. Read the flash memory of CB2S (to be sure, do it several times) and send flash bin to tuya-cloudcutter guys so futher devices can be programmed remotely
    3. Flash OpenBK
    4. Connect tracks again
    5. Try the dpIDs from Tasmota page.
    See this: https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/pull/75 for reference
    OpenBK script:
    
    // start MCU driver
    startDriver TuyaMCU
    // let's say that channel 1 is dpid1 - fan on/off
    setChannelType 1 toggle
    // map dpid1 to channel1, var type 1 (boolean)
    linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 1 1
    

    Check if it works, you can also do the same for light:
    
    // let's say that channel 2 is dpid9 - light on/off
    setChannelType 2 toggle
    // map dpid2 to channel2, var type 1 (boolean)
    linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 1 2
    

    Check if it works.

    Then I would need to add support for this:
    Quote:

    dpid3 - fan speed (0 = low, 1 = med, 2 = hi)
    dpid6 - self timer (0 = off, 1 = 1hr, 2 = 2hr, 4 = 4hr, 8 = 8hr)

    and this:
    Quote:

    dpid7 - timer remaining

    but I can do this remotely, without having device at hand, if you are willing to help.
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  • #566 20009593
    echojjj
    Level 8  
    @p.kaczmarek2 I've never known a ceiling fan to have two lights. It's possible this controller has other functions, but for my purposes, I need fan speed high, fan speed med, fan speed low, fan off, and one light. Timer function is a bonus. I'll try to find the user manual that goes with it.

    I'll get started on this in the morning. Thanks!
  • #567 20009602
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    I will add fan speed (Low/Med/High) channel type and display on OpenBeken index page tomorrow for you. We shall get it fully supported with your help. First, try reading the original firmware and report progress here. For reading, even bkWriter 1.60 works for BK7231N (I think), but for writing, only Python flasher will do. Good luck!

    edit: by Python flasher I mean hid_download_py:
    https://github.com/OpenBekenIOT/hid_download_py

    Added after 8 [hours] 51 [minutes]:

    @echojjj as mentioned yesterday, I am adding a channel type for fan speed:
    Quote:

    dpid3 - fan speed (0 = low, 1 = med, 2 = hi)

    
    setChannelType 3 LowMidHigh
    

    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant

    Do you know if time can be any value or just one of these?
    Quote:

    dpid6 - self timer (0 = off, 1 = 1hr, 2 = 2hr, 4 = 4hr, 8 = 8hr)

    Can it be set to 5 as well? So 5h?
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  • #568 20009987
    kuba2k2
    Level 13  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    And yet another device, unlucky bulb with a strange WB2L_M1 module which is like WB2L but on BK7231N (not T!),

    Did you find Tuya datasheets for that module? I don't see it on their page.
  • #569 20010056
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    No, but Tuya is dropping that module in new devices like crazy.
    And so far it always came with covered programming pins!
    Luckily for you, I am sending flash dumps to cloudcutter guys so you will not have to go through the process I go.
    Look, two bulbs, E14 and E27.
    E27:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    E14:
    [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant [BK7231T] My HTTP server, configurator, MQTT support from Home Assistant
    I have to desolder module with hot air every time.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #570 20010140
    echojjj
    Level 8  
    @p.kaczmarek2 Strange universe! Two things today suddenly my soldering iron has stopped heating and my heat gun won't turn on! What is happening! This is so maddening! I will not buy another cheap soldering iron locally (too hot and short life), so I have to wait. Do you recommend any better soldering iron?

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    Do you know if time can be any value or just one of these?
    Quote:
    dpid6 - self timer (0 = off, 1 = 1hr, 2 = 2hr, 4 = 4hr, 8 = 8hr)

    Can it be set to 5 as well? So 5h?

    Yes, it can be set to any value. The remote control offers 1,2,4,8.

    There may be a dimmer function. It is not clear. I read it can dim the light. I read it cannot dim the light. I will purchase some dimmable LEDs this week.

    edit: I remembered I have spring pins (somewhere)... I'll print a programming jig and try to power/read/write this thing via spring pins while I wait for a new soldering iron. It could work.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the development and implementation of custom firmware for devices using the BK7231T and BK7231N chips, particularly focusing on creating a mini HTTP server, MQTT support, and integration with Home Assistant. Users share their experiences flashing various smart devices, troubleshooting issues related to UART connections, and configuring GPIO pins for different functionalities. The conversation also touches on the challenges of maintaining WiFi connectivity, the importance of proper pin configuration, and the potential for using I2C for additional device control. Several users report successful firmware updates and the addition of new features, including support for various sensors and devices.
Summary generated by the language model.
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