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Request for Help – Flashing Della Minisplit WiFi Module (WBR3 on TCWBRCU1)

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  • #1 21536655
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
    Posts: 83
    Rate: 10
    Edit:
    I’ve started a detailed teardown and modification guide for the Della Mini Split TCWBRCU1 module. It’s a work in progress but may be helpful:
    https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4125928.html

    Hey everyone,

    I’ve been digging into the WiFi module in my minisplit and could use some guidance on next steps. My goal is to run OpenBeken or another fully local solution — something cloud-free like LocalTuya, but flashed directly onto the device for better performance and independence.While I’ve tried LocalTuya in the past, I’ve run into permission issues, and I’d like to move away from Tuya entirely if possible.

    I will be updating this post with images later today. These will include pictures of the module, the internal layout, and the desoldered WBR3 module.If anyone has experience flashing WBR3 modules or working with minisplits like this, I’d really appreciate your input.

    Minisplit Details
    - Make:
    Della
    - Model:
    Optima Series
    - OEM Manufacturer:
    Align, Inc
    - Indoor Unit Model:
    048-TP-9K2V-23S-IN
    - Outdoor Unit Model: 048-TP-9K2V-23S-OUT
    - Amazon Link: Link
    - Type: Mini Split Air Conditioner
    - Cooling Capacity:
    9,000 BTU
    - Heating Capacity: 9,000 BTU
    - Power Supply:
    115V, 60Hz
    - Installation Type: Wall-mounted (Indoor), Outdoor unit with condenser coil
    - Features:
    WiFi control, Bluetooth capabilities

    The indoor unit has a removable USB WiFi + Bluetooth module. You can remove it by taking off the plastic clip that holds it in the housing, then sliding the module out.

    Module Breakdown
    - Main Module: TCWBRCU1
    - Soldered Chipset Module: WBR3

    The WBR3 is a separate module soldered onto the TCWBRCU1 board. I’ve opened the housing and taken clear photos of both modules and the internal layout. I haven’t desoldered the WBR3 yet, but I plan to do that later today to access the pins and take more detailed pictures for flashing.

    Chipset ID (speculation):

    Based on my research and comparisons to similar modules, I believe the WBR3 uses the Realtek RTL8710BN, which is part of the AmebaZ2 family. However, I haven’t confirmed this yet — some sources also mention RTL8720CF in relation to these modules. Once I can inspect the chip directly, I’ll confirm the markings.

    What I Know So Far

    - The WBR3 is listed as supported on the OpenBeken GitHub under the AmebaZ2 family (e.g., BW15, W701, WBR2, WBR3).
    - It may be flashable via UART, and I’ve found a walkthrough for flashing, so the process seems achievable.
    - The TCWBRCU1 base module is associated with the RTL8720CF, but the soldered WBR3 is likely doing the WiFi/Bluetooth work here.
    - However, I haven’t found a matching template for this minisplit model or module combination in OpenBeken, which is causing concern for the functionality after flashing.

    My Main Concern
    While flashing the module via UART seems feasible, my biggest worry is maintaining the full functionality of the minisplit post-flash. Without a template specifically for my minisplit model (048-TP-9K2V-23S-IN), I’m not sure if critical features (like temperature settings, mode switching, or IR control) will continue to work correctly once the firmware is updated.

    I want to ensure that I don’t lose important functionality after flashing OpenBeken or another local solution to the module.

    What I'm Hoping For
    - Be able to flash OpenBeken to the board
    - Configure the minisplit functionality (temperature settings, mode switching, IR control, etc.)
    - Create a device template once everything is working correctly
    - Provide the template to the community to help others with similar devices

    Reference Material
    - TCWBRCU1 Datasheet
    - WBR3 Datasheet

    AI: Once you have the WBR3 module desoldered, could you provide detailed photos or a diagram of the pinout and any markings on the chip? This will help confirm the exact wiring needed for UART flashing and chipset identification.

    Yes

    AI: Do you have any information (from the datasheets, PCB traces, or logic analysis) about the communication protocol between the WBR3 module and the main TCWBRCU1 board? Knowing whether it uses UART, SPI, I2C, or something else is key to ensuring OpenBeken can support all the minisplit’s functions after flashing.

    At this point, I haven’t fully traced or confirmed the communication protocol between the WBR3 and the TCWBRCU1 board. However, here’s what I’ve observed and what I plan to do:

    Pin Inspection (Planned): Once I desolder the WBR3 module later today, I’ll be inspecting and tracing the pins to determine how it connects to the TCWBRCU1. I'll also look at any silkscreen or labeled test pads for hints.

    Datasheets: The Tuya WBR3 datasheet mentions UART and PWM support, and some SPI/I2C capabilities, but it doesn’t explicitly describe how the WBR3 communicates in this specific configuration.

    Assumption (Working Theory): Since many Tuya modules communicate with their host boards via UART (e.g., simple serial commands for control and status), I'm speculating that UART is likely being used here. That said, I haven't validated this yet.

    Logic Analysis: I plan to probe the board and possibly do some logic analysis once it’s powered back up, ideally with the stock firmware still intact, to sniff communication between the WBR3 and the TCWBRCU1 if needed.

    TCWBRCU1_V1.0.0 & WBR3 Images
    Top view of the left WBR3 pins while still soldered to TCWBRCU1.
    Tuya WBR3 WiFi module on PCB with USB connector, top view, on a light surface.

    Top view of the right WNR3 pins while still soldered to the TCWBRCU1.
    Tuya WBR3 WiFi module with USB connector, top view showing label with model and serial number.

    Bottom view of the TCWBRCU1 while WBR3 is still soldered.
    Blue PCB with electronic components and a white QR code sticker.

    Closer image of the bottom view. I am fairly certain these are pass through holes to the WBR3 flashing pins. According to the datasheet, these should be pins A_0, A_1 and A_15.
    Blue printed circuit board with electronic components, labels, and a QR code.


    Edit 1:
    Updated title and added images (Apologies for the cat hair in the pics).

    Edit 2:
    Updated additional mini split details.
    Added links.
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  • #2 21536689
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Posts: 14444
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    Your device is most likely using TuyaMCU, so you can do the initial reading here:
    TuyaMCU flashing, setup and configuration guide - configure dpIDs for Home Assistant
    You can extract datapoints this way:
    Extracting DpIDs for TUYA MCU devices
    Once flashed, you can also use new Berry integration for data points that are not yet supported by OBK code:
    Berry scripting for various IoT platforms - tutorial for OBK new script integration part 1
    Don't worry if it seems much, we can do it step by step. So, for a start, I suggest two things:
    1. make detailed photos of device and what Tuya app offers, how is WiFi module connected, is it connected to the TuyaMCU via first UART port? Or is it a non-TuyaMCU solution?
    2. try to do it: Extracting DpIDs for TUYA MCU devices
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #3 21536711
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
    Posts: 83
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    Thank you for the response!

    I've updated the initial post to include images of both modules. I believe there are passthrough holes available for programming the WBR3 without needing to desolder it from the TCWBRCU1 board. One of the pictures highlights which WBR3 pins are available through those holes, so it should make things a lot easier.

    I will attempt flashing the module tonight and report back my findings. I will also gather the requested images and update the initial post with them.

    The following datapoints were collected during my initial testing:

    Collected Datapoints via Tuya IoT Platform Website
    DPIDKeyNameTypeUnitRWRange/Notes
    1Power开关booltrue
    2temp_set设置温度valuetrue
    3temp_current当前温度valuefalse
    4mode工作模式enumtruecold, hot, wet, wind, auto
    5windspeed风速enumtruestrong, high, mid_high, mid, mid_low, low, mute, auto
    18humidity_current当前湿度value%true
    19temp_unit_convert温标切换enumtruec, f
    20Fault故障告警bitmapfalse
    23temp_current_f当前温度 ℉valuefalse
    24temp_set_f温度设置 ℉valuetrue
    101pm25PM2.5valuefalse
    102fresh_air新风enumtrueauto, low, mid, strong, off
    103freshair_filter新风脏堵boolfalse
    104SN_SW_verSN及软件版本rawfalse
    105sleep睡眠enumtrueoff, normal, old, child
    110markbit标识位bitmapfalse
    113up_down_sweep上下扫风enumtrue0, 1, 2, 3
    114left_right_sweep左右扫风enumtrue0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
    115totalN电量整数valuefalse
    116totalP电量小数valuefalse
    119money省钱看的见enumtrue0, 1, 2, 3
    120energy发电机模式enumtrueoff, L1, L2, L3
    122fault2故障报警2bitmapfalse
    123boolCode布尔型stringtrue
    125airquality空气质量enumfalsegreat, good, middle, bad, verybad, veryverybad


    Smart Life Application Screenshots
    Main screen of a smart home management app with device control options visible. Air conditioner control app screen showing 68°F cooling mode. Screen of an air conditioner control app, set to 75°F and cooling mode selected. Air conditioner control app screen set to cooling mode, temperature 75°F. Air conditioner control app screen set to 75°F in cooling mode, with fan mode Mid-High selected. Screen of an air conditioner app for controlling up-down air flow direction with various selectable modes. App screen for air conditioner's horizontal airflow control with multiple direction options. Mobile app screen with icons for functions: display, buzzer, anti-mildew, GEN mode, health, reservation, and self-diagnosis.

    Edit: Added Smart Life App screenshot images.
  • #4 21536725
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    This seems supportable, maybe not fully out of the box, but I can't see any serious problems. There are some data points that do not have a matching ChannelType in OBK yet but we can work on it. I can add channel types per request if needed, and we also have Berry scripting right now, so we should be able to figure things out.

    When flashing, make sure to get device backup first, so you can recover it if something goes wrong.

    I will also need to check whether UART and TuyaMCU drivers are already enabled on this Realtek platform, unless @divadiow and/or @insmod already know the answer? If they are not, we will need to enable them first.
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #5 21536915
    insmod
    Level 31  
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    All realteks support UART, and TuyaMCU driver is enabled by default on all of them.
    Berry support will be added soon, also by default.
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  • #6 21536931
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    This is better than expected. And my Berry integration is already able to parse TuyaMCU datapoints, as can be seen here:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/src/selftest/selftest_berry.c
    I just need to prepare a tutorial for that.
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  • #8 21537252
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
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    Thank you all for the information.

    I didn’t get home until later than expected yesterday, so I did not attempt to back up or flash. I will be trying in a few hours though and will report back.

    Added after 3 [hours] 15 [minutes]:

    >>21536969 Should I use this as a starting point or no?

    Added after 3 [hours] 12 [minutes]:

    My project is on hold for now. I tried using a solder sucker to desolder the WBR3, but it did not go very well. I was able to solder some Dupont wires to the WBR3 through the holes in the TCWBRCU1, and everything was looking good. That changed when I started wiring everything up on a breadboard. The trace for A_0 lifted, which is only the second time I have ever lifted a trace.

    It looks like I am now in the market for a new WBR3, and possibly a replacement TCWBRCU1 if I can find one. Unless I can desolder the WBR3, the scratch to expose some of the trace.

    I will post an update once I have a new module.
  • #9 21537743
    divadiow
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    I guess there's no guarantee the dpIDs for the WBR1 version are the same, so probably not. If it was me I'd start by capturing boot log and de-soldering so a flash backup could be taken.
  • #10 21540508
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    You don't need realtek. You can use any module that fits and run obk. WB3S or CB3S also should be good, I believe. Or a WB3S-NiceMCU from Aliexpress (the one on BK7238, not BK7231T), altough I don't remember testing UART on the "Nice" one.
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  • #11 21540548
    dressyspider
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    >>21540508 >>21540508 Darn, I already ordered a replacement. It should be delivered soon. I also got some better tools for de-soldering SMB components. I'll be trying again tomorrow.

    Going to de-solder, then I will be exposing the trace and soldering to it directly to see if a dump/flash is still possible.
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  • #12 21540765
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    Well, the good side of having the same module as replacement is the fact that this will allow you to try or return to factory firmware as well.
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  • #13 21541593
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
    Posts: 83
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    I was able to:
    - De-solder the WBR3 module from the TCWBRCU1 module, but lifting GND pad in the process
    - Repair lifted GND pad
    - Scratch the bus line for A_0 and solder a line to it
    - Solder all points to communicate with UART cable
    - Connect soldered points and UART adapter leads to a breadboard via dupont cables

    As I was unplugging the EN cable on the breadboard, the A_16 pad lifted from the WBR3. This time I could not repair the lift. These module boards are very fragile and/or I am very out of practice.

    I am curious about using a WB3S because I cannot seem to locate a reliable place to order the WBR3 from. The layout is a bit different though. Would this one work? There is a drop down to choose just the chip.

    Edit 1:

    Found and ordered the WBR3 on aliexpress

    Edit 2:
    Update: I will be able to try again and will be receiving a replacement on Friday (MST)(UTC-07:00). 
    Instead of de-soldering, I am printing this PCB workstation to make life easier. 

    I will update again after my next dump/flash attempt.
  • #14 21544721
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
    Posts: 83
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    @p.kaczmarek2 I was able to desolder the new WBR3. I have it connected to a UART adapter, but am not able to get past the "getting bus" message in BK7231 flash tool. Can you take a look at my wiring and let me know if you see anything obviously wrong?

    -This is what I have done after wiring everything up:
    -Verified it's COM4.
    -Tried the other preset baud rates.
    -Shorted EN to GND after clicking "Do firmware backup 'read' only". (I have also tried removing power from VCC on the WBR3 with the same timing)



    Breadboard with connected wires, electronic module, and USB programmer.


    Screenshot of the BK7231 Easy UART Flasher program showing connection bus failure errors.
  • #15 21544726
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    Easy Flasher does not backup from or write to any Realtek chips. AmebaZ2 backups should be taken with ltchiptool for now and writing can be performed with AmebaZ2 PG Tool

    see https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4097185.html for flashing. Tool downloadable from https://github.com/openshwprojects/FlashTools/blob/main/Realtek/AmebaZII_PGTool_v1.2.47.exe

    Please also backup and share the new module flash, it may contain interesting testing firmware.
  • #16 21544728
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
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    >>21544726 Sweet, Thank you. I will try now. Also, I was planning on sharing the dump and creating a separate teardown for anyone else with the same/similar mini split models. :)

    Edit: Looks like it's backing up.

    Screenshot of ltchiptool v4.12.0 reading flash memory from a Realtek AmebaZ2 chip via serial port. 

    Added after 56 [minutes]:

    @p.kaczmarek2 @divadiow

    Do these files look correct? One is from choosing the "Read Flash" option and the other if from choosing "Read ROM". 
    Attachments:
    • ltchiptool_ambz2_2025-05-09_22-07-07.bin (2 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • ltchiptool_ambz2_2025-05-09_22-23-55_rom.bin (384 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #17 21544743
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    yes, the rom should be 384kb
    A list of IoT device ROM BIN files, each with a size of 384 KB.

    and your 2mb backup does boot

    Code: Text
    Log in, to see the code
  • #18 21544752
    dressyspider
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    Great! Thank you for checking. I’m calling it a night, but will be flashing tomorrow evening after I get home.
  • #19 21547316
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
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    I have successfully flashed the WBR3 and configured it to be on my IoT SSID.

    Configuration page for OpenRTL87X0C_E1BC1852 device for MQTT settings, with fields for host, port, and user credentials.

    I am a bit confused here because the names do not line up with the data points that were collected earlier.
    Screenshot showing the configuration page of a Della Mini Split device in a browser, with pin settings and device details visible.

    Screenshot of the Della Mini Split configuration page showing a list of GPIO pin assignments and dropdown function selectors.
  • #20 21547560
    divadiow
    Level 38  
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    ah, it's TuyaMCU so no GPIO assignments. You'll need to start with something like https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4038151.html

    There are many TuyaMCU devices in the device list that will probably show the journeys others have taken https://openbekeniot.github.io/webapp/devicesList.html

    example autoexecs for devices with TuyaMCU https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/autoexecExamples.md

    looks like you've got your work cut out for you https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4119999.html#21536711
  • #21 21547571
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
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    I am genuinely curious, how can you tell? Im very new to flashing these kinds of chips and have only flashed Sonoff S31s with tasmota.

    Is it possible I flashed the incorrect BIN? I used "OpenRTL87X0C_1.18.99.bin"

    Also, would it make a difference if I swapped the WBR3 with another similar module? My guess is no because it appears the TuyaMCU handles the actual commands?
  • #22 21548620
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
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    Thanks for the links @divadiow . I went through them and they really helped clear things up. I have a better understanding of how TuyaMCU devices work now and I’m going to try the recommended approaches.

    I appreciate your help with this.

    Also, I managed to get my original WBR3 working again, so I guess I’ve earned myself another chance to break it! Haha. I’m thinking I’ll just keep that one stock for now as a backup.
  • #23 21548807
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    dressyspider wrote:

    Also, would it make a difference if I swapped the WBR3 with another similar module? My guess is no because it appears the TuyaMCU handles the actual commands?

    Obk runs on many platforms but, as far as i know, all popular WBR3-format modules have UART in the same place, just like TYWE3S, so as long as you get OBK-compatible module with TuyaMCU support it should work just fine. For example, CB3S or WB3S would certainly work.

    Altough... you may need first to double-check if the basic pinout is really matching. Ground, 3.3V, RESET, UART. Other gpio positions change between modules but it should not be a problem here...
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  • #24 21549144
    dressyspider
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    Thanks for the clarification. I am going to stick with the stock WBR3 for now since it appears to be functional and I am still able to communicate with it via OpenBeken.

    In the meantime I have ordered a link analyzer to capture and analyze UART traffic between the WBR3 and the TuyaMCU. While I wait for it to arrive I am gathering as much data as possible from the Tuya IoT platform using the original firmware. I am especially focusing on identifying which DPID values correspond to which commands like power control and timers and how they are structured such as types and timing fields.

    Once the analyzer is here I plan to correlate the cloud commands with the actual UART traffic to fully map out the control scheme. If I learn anything useful I will share it here in case others are doing similar TuyaMCU reverse engineering.

    Added after 6 [hours] 16 [minutes]:

    Quick recap of where I’m at:
    • I flashed OpenBeken 1.18.99 onto a WBR3 (RTL87X0C)
    • Reinstalled it into the TCWBRCU1 module, which is connected to a Della 048-TP-9K2V-23S-IN unit
    • MQTT is working with Home Assistant
    • The TuyaMCU driver loads fine, but I don’t have access to TuyaMCU_RX/TX roles in /cfg_pins
    • Commands like setTuyaMCUBaudRate and tuyaMcu_sendQueryState either aren’t available or don’t return anything useful
    • There’s no DPID logging even when I use the original IR remote
    • I know the Tuya Cloud API uses { "switch": "true" } to turn on the unit, but I haven’t found a working DPID or OBK command that does the same

    Am I using the wrong commands to test TuyaMCU comms with the RTL87X0C? I've tried the commands available in the cmd_tool section at "http://10.1.107.12/cmd_tool" and also within the webapp logs at "http://10.1.107.12/app?".
  • #26 21549469
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
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    Thanks, that actually clears up a lot. I had a feeling something wasn’t adding up with TuyaMCU.

    I’ll take a look at those links you shared, especially the TCL AC protocol ones. It makes sense now if this Della unit is using a custom serial format and not the standard Tuya DPIDs. That would explain why commands like tuyaMcu_sendState and setTuyaMCUBaudRate weren’t doing anything, and why I’m not seeing any DPID logs even when using the IR remote.

    I’ve got a logic analyzer arriving soon, so once I get some UART captures between the WBR3 and the main board, I’ll try to match it with what the Tuya cloud is sending. If it looks like the TCL format, I might go the ESPHome route or see if I can make a driver for OpenBeken.

    I’ll post whatever I find in case it helps others with similar setups.

    Appreciate the help!
  • #27 21549472
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    Interesting, I haven't seen such non-TuyaMCU device yet. I can try to draft a driver for it tomorrow if I manage to find some spare time.
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  • #28 21549473
    dressyspider
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    What information could I provide you to make it easier for you to draft a driver?
  • #29 21549694
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    Which command would be most suitable for testing? Setting mode? Off, cool, dry?

    I'm porting one of linked drivers here:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/pull/1635

    Added after 2 [hours] 17 [minutes]:

    I've did quick port of single send.
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/pull/1635
    Maybe @insmod can review.
    Usage:
    
    startDriver TCL
    ACMode 0
    

    then ACMode 1, ACMode 2, etc
    
    typedef enum {
    	CLIMATE_MODE_OFF,
    	CLIMATE_MODE_COOL,
    	CLIMATE_MODE_DRY,
    	CLIMATE_MODE_FAN_ONLY,
    	CLIMATE_MODE_HEAT,
    	CLIMATE_MODE_HEAT_COOL,
    	CLIMATE_MODE_AUTO,
    } climateMode_e;
    

    Reply parse is not ported yet, it seems one of the sends is using parsed reply, i hope it will not cause issues
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  • #30 21550109
    dressyspider
    Level 2  
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    I tried running startDriver TCL, but it looks like the driver is not included in this build yet.

    OBK Log output:
    
    Debug:API:POST to api/cmnd
    Debug:CMD:cmd [startDriver TCL]
    Info:MAIN:Driver TCL is not known in this build.
    Info:MAIN:Available drivers: 
    Info:MAIN:TuyaMCU
    Info:MAIN:, tmSensor
    Info:MAIN:, NTP
    Info:MAIN:, I2C
    Info:MAIN:, BL0942
    Info:MAIN:, BL0937
    Info:MAIN:, CSE7766
    Info:MAIN:, DGR
    Info:MAIN:, Wemo
    Info:MAIN:, SM2135
    Info:MAIN:, BP5758D
    Info:MAIN:, BP1658CJ
    Info:MAIN:, SM2235
    Info:MAIN:, BMPI2C
    Info:MAIN:, CHT83XX
    Info:MAIN:, AHT2X
    Info:MAIN:, DS1820
    Info:CMD:[WebApp Cmd 'startDriver TCL' Result] OK
    


    The command still returns OK, but the driver does not seem to be active.

    What is the best way to try it out? Should I wait for a build that includes the TCL driver, or is there a recommended way to test it now?

Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on flashing and customizing the WiFi module (WBR3 on TCWBRCU1 board) of a Della Optima Series minisplit air conditioner to run OpenBeken firmware for local, cloud-free control. Initial assumptions about the device using TuyaMCU were revised after UART traffic analysis revealed a custom protocol similar to TCL AC units, leading to the development and testing of a dedicated TCL driver in OpenBeken. The user successfully desoldered the WBR3 module, backed up its firmware using appropriate Realtek tools (ltchiptool and AmebaZ2 PG Tool), and flashed OpenBeken firmware. Key datapoints such as power, mode, fan speed, temperature, humidity, and PM2.5 were identified from the Tuya IoT platform, but the device uses a binary packet protocol rather than standard Tuya DPIDs.

The community collaboratively developed and refined the TCL driver, enabling control of power, mode (cool, heat, dry, fan, auto), fan speeds (mapped to Smart Life app presets including auto, mute, mid-low to turbo), swing positions (vertical and horizontal), buzzer (beep) on/off, and display brightness on/off. The driver was integrated with Home Assistant via MQTT with discovery support, allowing control and state feedback. Challenges included correct UART parity settings (even parity), packet parsing, and mapping driver values to Home Assistant entities. The user provided detailed logs, testing results, and UI feedback, leading to improvements in MQTT integration, UI elements for fan speed and swing controls, and bug fixes for state synchronization. The project also discussed future enhancements like better OBK UI integration, thermostat card improvements, and potential DIY thermostat projects using OBK on ESP32 with external sensors.

Overall, the thread documents a successful reverse engineering and firmware replacement effort for the Della minisplit WiFi module, enabling local control with OpenBeken, full MQTT/Home Assistant integration, and detailed community-driven driver development for a non-standard protocol device.
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FAQ

TL;DR: If you have a Della mini split with a WBR3 module, you can flash OpenBeken locally, back up the original 2 MB flash first, and then control cooling, heat, fan, swing, buzzer, display, and even GEN mode. As one developer put it, "It worked!" This FAQ is for owners who want cloud-free control without losing core AC functions. [#21551100]

Why it matters: This thread shows that some Della WiFi modules are not standard TuyaMCU devices, so using the correct Realtek tools and the TCL driver is the difference between a working local AC and a dead-end flash attempt.

Option Chip family Fit/use in thread Main caveat
WBR3 Realtek RTL8720CF/AmebaZ2 Native Della module; fully tested with OBK TCL driver Fragile pads and traces during wiring
WBR1 on TCLWBR Realtek RTL8720CF Also worked after correct VIN/VCC power wiring Needed both 5 V and 3.3 V path active
WB3S Beken Considered compatible replacement for TuyaMCU-style UART layout Must verify 3.3 V, GND, reset, and UART pin match
CB3S Beken Considered compatible replacement with OBK support Same pinout checks as WB3S

Key insight: The Della TCWBRCU1/WBR3 setup in this thread was ultimately treated as a custom TCL serial protocol, not a normal TuyaMCU datapoint bridge. That is why flashing succeeded only after using Realtek-specific tools and why control required the OpenBeken TCL driver, not GPIO templates. [#21549462]

Quick Facts

  • The confirmed stock backup sizes were 384 KB ROM and 2 MB flash, and the 2 MB dump was verified to boot before flashing OpenBeken. [#21544743]
  • The working UART settings for the TCL protocol were 9600 baud, 8 data bits, even parity, 1 stop bit (9600 8E1); parity was a real failure point until fixed. [#21550462]
  • The Della unit discussed was a 9,000 BTU heat/cool mini split on 115 V, 60 Hz power, using a removable USB WiFi/Bluetooth module with a WBR3 soldered to a TCWBRCU1 carrier. [#21536655]
  • Internal target temperature in the TCL protocol is Celsius only, with a usable command range of 16–31 °C; entering 75 or 77 as if they were Fahrenheit produced wrong results such as 81 °F and 84 °F on the indoor display. [#21553236]
  • Reverse-engineered GEN mode testing showed approximate winter heating limits of 1.2 kW at L1, 1.8 kW at L2, 2.3 kW at L3, and 2.9 kW with no GEN limit, based on clamp monitoring. [#21781377]

How do I flash a Della mini split WBR3 WiFi module on the TCWBRCU1 board with OpenBeken step by step?

Use Realtek tools, not BK7231 tools. 1. Back up the stock WBR3 first with the Realtek workflow, because the verified flash dump was 2 MB and recoverable. 2. Flash an OpenRTL87X0C build that includes the TCL driver or update later by OTA. 3. Start the driver with startDriver TCL, then test commands such as ACMode 1, FANMode 3, and TargetTemperature 24. The thread showed this sequence working on the Della 048-TP-9K2V-23S-IN after successful backup and flash. [#21547316]

What is TuyaMCU, and how is it different from the custom TCL serial protocol used by some Della mini split WiFi modules?

"TuyaMCU is a host-MCU protocol layer that lets a WiFi module exchange standardized datapoints with a separate appliance controller, usually over UART." In this thread, that turned out not to be the whole story for the Della mini split. The WBR3 could run OpenBeken, but the AC control path matched a custom TCL serial protocol instead of normal TuyaMCU DPID traffic, which explained why TuyaMCU commands did nothing while the TCL driver worked. [#21549462]

Why does a Della WBR3 module get stuck on "getting bus" in BK7231 tools, and which flashing tools should I use for Realtek RTL8720CF or AmebaZ2 instead?

It gets stuck because BK7231 tools do not support Realtek AmebaZ2 chips like the WBR3. One helper stated plainly that Easy Flasher does not back up or write Realtek chips. The working toolchain in the thread was ltchiptool for backup and AmebaZ2 PG Tool for writing on RTL8720CF/AmebaZ2 hardware, which immediately solved the stalled "getting bus" problem. [#21544726]

What is a DPID in the Tuya ecosystem, and how were the Della mini split datapoints like power, mode, windspeed, and swing identified in this thread?

"DPID is a Tuya datapoint identifier that maps a cloud-visible property to a device function, type, and value range." The thread identified the Della AC datapoints from the Tuya IoT Platform and later from the product data model. Examples included DPID 1 power, 4 mode, 5 windspeed, 113 vertical swing, 114 horizontal swing, and 120 GEN mode, each with enum or value ranges shown by the Tuya schema. [#21536711]

How can I back up the stock firmware from a WBR3 or WBR1 module before flashing OpenBeken?

Back it up with the Realtek toolchain before you flash anything. The proven path was to read both the ROM and full flash, then verify the sizes: the ROM should be 384 KB and the flash dump 2 MB on the tested WBR3. That backup later booted successfully, which gave the thread a recovery path when hardware pads were lifted during rework. [#21544743]

Which OpenBeken commands were used to control the Della mini split after flashing, including ACMode, FANMode, SwingH, SwingV, TargetTemperature, Buzzer, Display, and Gen?

The working commands were startDriver TCL, ACMode, FANMode, SwingH, SwingV, TargetTemperature, Buzzer, Display, and later Gen. Confirmed examples included ACMode 1 for cool, ACMode 3 for fan-only, TargetTemperature 24, Buzzer 0, Display 0, and the test PR command Gen 0 through Gen 3. Those commands were validated progressively in the thread and then exposed to Home Assistant through MQTT discovery. [#21761114]

Why did TargetTemperature seem wrong when entering Fahrenheit values in OpenBeken, and how does the Della TCL protocol actually handle temperature internally?

It seemed wrong because OpenBeken expected Celsius while the indoor display was showing Fahrenheit. The TCL protocol stores target temperature as a 4-bit value for 16–31 °C, so entering TargetTemperature 75 was interpreted as a Celsius-side command, wrapped internally, and produced values like 29 °C, which appeared as about 84 °F on the unit. Once the user switched to TargetTemperature 24 and 25, the display correctly showed 75 °F and 77 °F. [#21553392]

What was the correct UART configuration for the Della TCL mini split protocol on Realtek, including baud rate and parity, and why did parity matter?

The correct serial format was 9600 8E1: 9600 baud, 8 data bits, even parity, 1 stop bit. Parity mattered because the first TCL driver builds used the wrong parity setting, so commands were sent but not understood correctly by the AC controller. Once even parity was fixed, the unit started beeping on valid commands and mode and fan tests began to work immediately. [#21551100]

How do Home Assistant MQTT discovery and the OpenBeken TCL driver work together for a Della mini split, and what commands or settings are needed to make the climate entity appear?

Start the TCL driver first, then trigger Home Assistant discovery. The thread used startDriver TCL and then either Home Assistant discovery from the UI or the command scheduleHADiscovery 1. After that, Home Assistant created a climate entity and additional controls, and later builds added mode, fan, horizontal swing, and vertical swing support to the discovered entity. [#21561364]

What troubleshooting steps helped when Home Assistant showed Della mini split state updates but power-on or mode changes did not work correctly?

The main fixes were driver-side, not MQTT-side. Early on, Home Assistant could show state changes from OBK, but power-on and mode commands were incomplete because the TCL mode parse and mode publishing were not fully implemented. Once the driver parsed AC mode correctly, Home Assistant could both read OBK state and write changes back, including on/off and mode switching. [#21563089]

WB3S vs CB3S vs WBR3 for a Della mini split replacement module — which options were considered compatible with OpenBeken and what pinout checks matter most?

WBR3 was the native tested module, but WB3S and CB3S were both considered workable OpenBeken replacements. The key check was not brand alone; it was whether GND, 3.3 V, reset, and UART matched the original footprint and host board expectations. The thread specifically noted that other GPIO positions may differ, but the basic UART-based control path could still work if those core pins lined up. [#21548807]

How can I capture UART traffic between the WiFi module and the indoor unit MCU on a Della mini split without a full logic analyzer?

You can capture each UART lane separately with a USB-UART adapter if you match the serial settings. One developer explained that you do not need a full logic analyzer to start; you can connect RX to the line you want to observe, set the correct baud, and record module-to-MCU and MCU-to-module traffic independently. For this TCL setup, correct serial settings mattered, especially parity. [#21550113]

What caused the WBR1 TCLWBR board to crash when starting UART-based OpenBeken drivers, and how was the missing VCC or VIN power connection eventually identified?

The crash came from powering the WBR1 incorrectly during bench testing. The user had supplied only 3.3 V for flashing-style setup, but the TCLWBR adapter also needed the VIN/VCC path active from 5 V so the board’s power scheme matched normal operation. Once they powered the adapter board correctly instead of only the WBR1 core rail, the TCL driver started normally and the module worked. [#21579198]

Where can I find replacement Della-compatible WiFi modules like WBR3, WBR1, or Pioneer USB adapter boards if I damage the original during flashing?

One confirmed source was Pioneer’s replacement USB WiFi/BLE dongle for WYT/WT systems, which a later poster said used the same style of module and compatible firmware family. Earlier in the thread, users also sourced WBR3 replacements from AliExpress after damaging traces and pads during desoldering. The practical lesson was to buy a spare before risky rework, because these module pads are fragile. [#21766471]

How was the GEN or generator mode on supported Della mini splits reverse engineered, and what do the L1, L2, and L3 power limits correspond to in practice?

GEN mode was inferred from the Tuya schema, then tested in a custom OpenBeken PR with Gen 0 to Gen 3, and finally validated by watching real power draw. Practical results on one unit were about 1.2 kW for L1, 1.8 kW for L2, 2.3 kW for L3, and 2.9 kW with no GEN limit during cold-weather heating. The user mapped L1, L2, and L3 to roughly 30%, 50%, and 80% compressor power limits. [#21762524]
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